Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all..

So i was wondering if anyone has got a remap done from toshi? Road tuned or dyno tuned!!

Would love to hear your thoughts.

For about 500 bucks i think its a good deal.

more info in his thread here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...no-t210097.html

Should i do it or not is the question lol

Also if anyone in sydney has got it done, can i come check our your car lol...

Edited by siddr20
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210316-anyone-got-a-toshi-remap/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yea i tried calling him today actually.. He was in a meeting.. Will try again today!!

Edit: yea just spoke to him then.. He was very happy with!! Fuel ratios were spot on..

Hmm might give this a go..

Edited by siddr20

I think the remap has a lot more potential than the safc, by the looks of things pointed out by toshi.

Safc, will just basically tune your air fuel ratio's and thats it. Well you adjust the fuel curve, but i think the remap can squeeze a lot more power.

Safc will probably also cost a bit more than the remap.

Hopefully someone else can explain the difference better than me..

Well im gonna give this remap a go next week probably.

Obviously you stated your getting Toshi to do this remap, just let us know where you had to take your car,if he did it on a dyno or street,how much, and roughly how long and seat of pants feel.Especially

down low in the revs.

Toshi did a remap on mine... good bloke, and knows the cars well.

spent nearly 6 hours doing the road tune to get it right...makes a noticable difference.

Best thing with toshi is that if your not happy he will keep going until you are and keeps the car at a safe tune..

If you want to know anything else let me know..

Scotty

YCOPY

Toshi did a remap on mine... good bloke, and knows the cars well.

spent nearly 6 hours doing the road tune to get it right...makes a noticable difference.

Best thing with toshi is that if your not happy he will keep going until you are and keeps the car at a safe tune..

If you want to know anything else let me know..

Scotty

YCOPY

How was the fuel economy after the tune - better, worse or same?

fuel economy after the tune, it was close to the same..but the car has more power.

about 400-450kms (daily driving) per tank of v power (car was tuned on that) a little less on caltex 98 less power too.

Toshi said he could map for fuel economy or map for power...i went power..

Car is a 95 R33 GTST

mods...3inch exaust,pod filter,FMIC.

I increased the boost to from 7 to 10.

other than that the cars engine and turbo is stock.

no dyno yet, drifting i can feel there is a hugh improvment over STD i can hold a lot more speed sliding through corners, its kinda hard to explain but the power is there when i need it..you put your foot down and it goes..:D

There is more power all the way through the rev range and the car is very responsive, so daily driving is still fun too.

When i get there im going to speak to him in more detail.

I rather get the dyno tune done.

Testing on the road- well seems bit dangerous as theres too many factors involved.

I will find out on firday anyways.

Will post up the details then

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...