Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have this problem where after I use my indicator I keep hearing the noise sporadically for a few minutes. The indicator isn't flashing on the dash or on the car, it's just making the noise...and it's not the consistent indicator noise as it sometimes goes fast and then slow.

The only that that has been changed in the car since it happened was connecting the LED on my boost guage to the cigarette lighter wiring. Surely this wouldn't have anything to do with it? I dont know if the noise is mechanical or electrical though?

It's really weird...anyone had this prob before? It's an R33 S1 GTST slush

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210866-indicator-noise-but-no-light/
Share on other sites

I have this problem where after I use my indicator I keep hearing the noise sporadically for a few minutes. The indicator isn't flashing on the dash or on the car, it's just making the noise...and it's not the consistent indicator noise as it sometimes goes fast and then slow.

The only that that has been changed in the car since it happened was connecting the LED on my boost guage to the cigarette lighter wiring. Surely this wouldn't have anything to do with it? I dont know if the noise is mechanical or electrical though?

It's really weird...anyone had this prob before? It's an R33 S1 GTST slush

Its the relay you can hear ticking. if its ticking and your indicator lights arent, its not the indicator circuit or relay causing the problem. It could be an old alarm system relay ticking away. maybe try to locate the relay without pulling to much of ur dash apart

Its the relay you can hear ticking. if its ticking and your indicator lights arent, its not the indicator circuit or relay causing the problem. It could be an old alarm system relay ticking away. maybe try to locate the relay without pulling to much of ur dash apart

thanks, i'll get a mate to check it out when we take the dash off to paint it. I have NFI what relays are but he should know. It may have been an aftermarket alarm as the little switch spot to the left of the steering wheel is empty, so something was there once but removed before i bought it

a relay is an electrical switch. If you turn off you radio then turn keys from 'acc' to 'on' you'll hear relays click on and the opposite is true when reversed. Voltage goes through a coil which pulls in contacts which completes the circuit (turns on the switch). The one that controls your indicators is called a 'flasher can'.

Good luck searching.

  • 6 months later...

I also have this problem with clicking noise staying on for up to 10 minutes after indicator clicks off, been driving me insane but i should stop being lazy and actually have a look in there - Uneek, how did you go with this?

Cheers

  • 1 year later...
I also have this problem with clicking noise staying on for up to 10 minutes after indicator clicks off, been driving me insane but i should stop being lazy and actually have a look in there - Uneek, how did you go with this?

Cheers

I've been in his car.. It's now worse than ever lol

I had this happening to me - After indicating, the stalk would return to neutral but the clicking noise would continue double time.

I ended up taking the assembly off the column to test and i could see it shorting/arcing across the circuits when the stalk returned to the neutral position. I pulled the assembly apart, found the area that was causing the issue and cleaned it up a bit (there was grease everywhere and burnt circuitry in there). Put it all back together and it seemed to fix it for a while, but I think the damage was done and later it would short again intermittently. In the end, I just sourced a replacement stalk and threw away my old one.

Try pulling yours apart - you might be able to get away with just cleaning it up

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSboy, thank you again. i’ve been reading all the other SAU RB25 vacuum line threads and you have the utmost patience for people asking “where do my vacuum lines go”. it’s appreciated. i did also enlist a few other RB guys local to me.  i would like to run 5 to 4. turbo pressure side to wastegate actuator. i would like to run 3 to 1. power steering air valve line to intercooler outlet. (this is how it was previously). i was told 2 is the bleed port for the boost solenoid - which i’m not running - so should be capped.   anyone see any problems with that?    
    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
×
×
  • Create New...