Jump to content
SAU Community

A Few Problems With My R32

flth32

By flth32,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got my r32 gts-t a few weeks ago. As soon as I got it I took it to the mechanics and spent about $1000 on it.. I just asked him to look all over it and find the main issues and fix them. He ended up doing a major service, replaced old fuel lines, replaced the timing belt, 'bushings?' or something (to do with the brakes).. but ANYWAY the point is he looked over it and got the major problems fixed.

But now there are other problems with it. Nothing really major, and I could easily live with it, but they're annoying and I want to fix them.

The problems:

- It spluttering at about 4000 rpm.. Its like the power is cutting in and out or something.. mainly happens when the engines cold. Sort of gets better when it warms up

- It backfires a lot.. is it running rich or something? .. should I get a new ECU/ remap

- It stalls if I'm going slow enough and at low enough revs.. For example when I'm rolling into the petrol station.. looks really cool :thumbsup:

- It struggles to turn on when its cold. I need to help it turn on by revving it

- Feels weak after about 4000 rpm.. most due to the spluttering. but even when it isn't doing that it just has no go after then.. I dont know if it's just because it's a 2 litre, but it just feels unhealthy and weak.. like it's really struggling in the high revs

About the 'spluttering'. The mechanic told me my BOV was leaking and if I fixed that it should fix the problem. So I went and bought a new turbo smart BOV, put it on and it did make the car run better... but it still 'splutters'..

So yeah. any help would be appreciated.

(By the way I accidentally posted this before I was finished. Thats why it was only half a message before)

Edited by flth32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211056-a-few-problems-with-my-r32/
Share on other sites
flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
You should never be revving a cold engine to 4000rpm.

Did you replace the sparkplugs? if that doesn't help it could be coils.

Is the TS bov plumb back?

No I don't think the spark plugs have been replaced, just cleaned. I'll try that.

And no it's a vee-port BOV (atmospheric). I actually asked the mechanic before I bought it, and asked will it being atmospheric cause problems and he said no.. obviously thats the problem though isn't it (with the stalling)

Edited by flth32
dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
Posted (edited)
- It spluttering at about 4000 rpm.. Its like the power is cutting in and out or something.. mainly happens when the engines cold. Sort of gets better when it warms up

when the car is cold it will run in 'rich and retarded' mode until the temperature reaches normal. you'll get flat spots and fuel cuts. this is common.

if it's happening even when the car's warmed up then it may be a fuel cut due to lack of fuel or leaning out.

have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? what boost are you running?

- It backfires a lot.. is it running rich or something? .. should I get a new ECU/ remap

sounds like she's running rich. re-tuning the car will stop this once you set a nice A/F ratio.

wouldn't worry about it too much for the moment, it's better running rich than lean.

- It stalls if I'm going slow enough and at low enough revs.. For example when I'm rolling into the petrol station.. looks really cool :banana:

have you blocked off the standard bov? is your aftermarket bov too tight? does it flutter?

having a blocked bov will cause it to stall. it doesn't catch the idle in time and just cuts out.

- It struggles to turn on when its cold. I need to help it turn on by revving it

does it crank over and start spluttering for a couple seconds, until the engine pulls the revs up?

this may be due to the heat range spark plugs you use or the viscosity of the cold temp for the engine oil you use.

what spark plugs and engine oil do you use?

- Feels weak after about 4000 rpm.. most due to the spluttering. but even when it isn't doing that it just has no go after then.. I dont know if it's just because it's a 2 litre, but it just feels unhealthy and weak.. like it's really struggling in the high revs

if it's leaning out up top it may sound like it has no balls, but the RB20 usually has most of it's power up top. dyno tuning the car will show why it feels like crap up top.

Edited by dmr
flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
when the car is cold it will run in 'rich and retarded' mode until the temperature reaches normal. you'll get flat spots and fuel cuts. this is common.

if it's happening even when the car's warmed up then it may be a fuel cut due to lack of fuel or leaning out.

have you got an aftermarket fuel pump? what boost are you running?

sounds like she's running rich. re-tuning the car will stop this once you set a nice A/F ratio.

wouldn't worry about it too much for the moment, it's better running rich than lean.

have you blocked off the standard bov? is your aftermarket bov too tight? does it flutter?

having a blocked bov will cause it to stall. it doesn't catch the idle in time and just cuts out.

does it crank over and start spluttering for a couple seconds, until the engine pulls the revs up?

this may be due to the heat range spark plugs you use or the viscosity of the cold temp for the engine oil you use.

what spark plugs and engine oil do you use?

if it's leaning out up top it may sound like it has no balls, but the RB20 usually has most of it's power up top. dyno tuning the car will show why it feels like crap up top.

Thanks for that man.

I'm not sure what spark plugs I've got (so yeah they did get replaced by my mechanic, but I dont know what brand they are...how can I find out.. ask my mechanic??). What engine oil should I use?

And I think the previous owner put an aftermarket fuel pump on. This is what he said but I don't actually know.. could this be causing problems?.. The spluttering?

Edited by flth32
GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

Oh dear.

For starters R&R has nothing to do with cold start.

If the issue occurred after you got your car back from a professional mechanic... take it back, and make him FIX the issue that he caused.

Did you happen to purchase the BOV through him? :banana:

Edited by GeeTR
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
Oh dear.

For starters R&R has nothing to do with cold start.

If the issue occurred after you got your car back from a professional mechanic... take it back, and make him FIX the issue that he caused.

Leaking bov eh?

I like the leaking BOV comments lol

Technically speaking it does leak :banana:

flth32 Explorer

flth32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
so u spend $1000 and didnt even get new spark plugs?

No, my bad. I actually did get new ones (I don't know why but I just thought I didn't).

And no unfortunately I didn't buy the BOV through him otherwise I'd ask to swap it for a plumb back one.

Thanks everyone I think I know the reason for most of the problems now..

Backfiring - running rich.. new ECU/remap

Stalling - loosen BOV or get plumb back

Top end - Maybe get it tuned down the track. Doesnt bother me enough right now

Still don't know about

'Spluttering' - thought it was plugs but I've got new ones. Could it be fuel pump (I think theres an aftermarket one on).. or maybe coil pack?

Struggling to turn on - this isnt that bad. Just weird and makes my car feel broken and crummy. Would be good if I could find out what it is

dmr Mentor

dmr

Posted
Posted
Thanks for that man.

I'm not sure what spark plugs I've got (so yeah they did get replaced by my mechanic, but I dont know what brand they are...how can I find out.. ask my mechanic??). What engine oil should I use?

And I think the previous owner put an aftermarket fuel pump on. This is what he said but I don't actually know.. could this be causing problems?.. The spluttering?

i personally use Motul Turbolight, and so do alot of other RB/SR motorists. best all rounder, and only costs ~$50 per 5L.

the spark plugs may also cause the spluttering. if the gap is too big then boost will blow out the spark, causing a misfire/splutter as FATAZZ said. try using NGK BKR7E or BKR6E. they're my personal fav. i've tried BCPR7ES and BCPR6ES but didn't like them as they caused my car to slightly misfire.

your mechanic probably put NGK iridiums, as most mechanics like to make you spend the extra dollar if you don't know what's best. iridiums are crap and waste of money. stick with copper plugs.

hope this helps :teehee:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Best place to order Authetic R32 Parts in Japan

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue slip

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
    • soviet_merlin
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. 
×
×
  • Create New...