Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i got one of these fitted in yestaday =) anyone know how to get 10-11psi with decent of the mark boost 'acceleration',

i found the gain, set, set gain, all a little bit confusing =S

why not make it simple...

well i've tired a few settings... and cant get boost past 9/ish with hardly any go from acceleration..

cars got sum of the things below

Stock turbo s2,

" " ECU

front mount

Bosch 040 pump

Forgies

has any1 got one, can provide any ideas " not gay comments about getting a tune etc ",

if i cant tune this myself... i will take into the shop !!!!

Edited by Mr_GaZZa
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/211565-greddy-trust-profec-b2/
Share on other sites

It really is a bit tricky without a dyno, but make sure you have installed it correctly, have taken out the plastic plug from the "unused" port on the solenoid and then try increasing the set boost and using peak function to see what you've hit.

use the gain to stop it spiking and then check its not overboosting again. this is quite hard to get right as you haven't got a numnber to start from really. you will not get a very good result on the road

if your dumb enough to do it on the road, you can set the limiter safety thing up to save you before playing around. if you dont crash, you will either get booked or blow the engine but yeah here is how to do it for the time being. might be better to do it with another twit in the car with you so you can watch the road and he watches the boost.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...