Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Make: Nissan

Model: GTIR RA Edition

Milage: 140,000

Transmission: Manual

Colour: Black (Fresh Respray)

Location: Sydney

Complied? Yep and im first owner in Australia

RWC supplied? If you want

Currently registered? Exp 29/01/09

Price: $14,000NEG

Contact: Via PM or 0405 835 006

Comments / Modifications:

PLATES INCLUDED IN SALE

ENGINE:

Mines ECU

Sard FPR

Fuel Pressure Guage

New Injectors

Service just completed (Oil Filter, Fuel Filter, oil ect)

New Plugs and Leads

New Dizzy Cap and Rotor Button

Trottle Bodies Cleaded out

Power Steering Pump replaced

Custom Made Radiatior Plate

Custom made Rover Cover Plate

K&N Pod filter

3" Mandrel Bend exhaust (Dump to flex pipe recently replaced buy HiTEK)

DRIVELINE:

Custom Made Heavy Duty 600HP Clutch (using NTN bearing)

Clutch Fork Strengthened

Clutch Pedal Strengthened

Replaced Clutch Master Clyinder

Gearbox and 3 Diffs flushed using Redline Oil

Front wheel bearings replced

Shifter Bush replaced

SUSPENSION:

Nismo Struts all round with progressive springs

Longer Tie Rod ends with grease nipples

Front ball joints replced

Front and rear CUSCO strut braces

Front braided brake lines

Replaced front disc's (not yet installed)

ICE:

Kenwood 6.5” 280 watt speakers (front doors)

Blaupoint 6x9 350 watt speakers (rear parcel shelf)

Pioneer DEH-6850MP (OEL dispay, 3 RCA out ect..)

OTHER:

Original GTIR Floormats

Original Flare

Original NISMO racing Seat (factory optional) see pic below (worth $1000)

Aftermarket Racing Seat (drivers)

Front alloy bash plate

Car has been resprayed and not driven sice i have colour coded the car and put new front and rear bars aswell as new bonnet (only 2 weeks ago)

Remote Central Locking and Alarm

Clear Side indicators

Also got a full set of Lockwood White Dials (Cluster and center guages) not installed

15" Light weight Racing Sparco Wheels 195/55/15

Fog light's still to go in the front bar (Genuine NISSAN)

Turbo Timer (not installed)

Also got some spares like a top mount intercooler and some other stuff ect...

Images:

post-31359-1207751323_thumb.jpg

post-31359-1207751361_thumb.jpg

post-31359-1207751382_thumb.jpg

post-31359-1207751402_thumb.jpg

post-31359-1207880227_thumb.jpg

Edited by SerialKiller
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214240-gtir-1-for-sale-price-dropped/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...