Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well push has come to shove

Have had a little bit of interest in my Cefiro...but no takers so I have bitten the bullet...bought myself a cheap Cima and now I have gotta get rid of everything possible on the Ceffy so........place your offers, nothing is sacred on this car apart from what will fit on my Cima and offers will not be refused unless profoundly obsurd!

email me at [email protected]

or if your after a speedy reply

[email protected](possiblity is might get blocked by spam filter)

if outside business hours(after 5:30pm) then call me on 041 994 6415 or 9242 3443

if anything is not listed just ask, Im sure I have spares of alot of stuff as I had a front cut aswell and stripped everthing possible off it so have a spare dash and components.

If you want picture of anything, just ask me

Enjoy the Massacre of a beautiful drift weapon!

Standard RB20DET

Rebuilt standard turbo

with loom and ecu

Timing belt recently replaced

$850

RB20 5 speed

$350

Lightened flywheel with 3 puck Brass Button clutch

$300

price for complete engine and G/Box $1300

red K&N Pod

$20

Front mount intercooler with custom 3" steel painted pipework(small amount needs to be replaced) and stainless steel T-Bolt hose clamps

$300

post-18399-1208759792_thumb.jpg

post-18399-1208759843_thumb.jpg

post-18399-1208759882_thumb.jpg

Oil cooler with sandwich plate(universal model so will fit others) to fit RB20

$150

post-18399-1208760032_thumb.jpg

Suspension

Front Strut tower brace

$100

Height adjustable suspension

Fronts: JIC coilovers

Rears: Racing Gear coilovers

$750 The lot

Hicas Lock Bar

$100

Dr. Drift Alloy Pineapples

$75

Interior

Aftermarket gauges include:

Greedy temp gauge mounted on A-Pillar

$100

Splitfire Oil pressure and Temp gauges in centre console

$50ea

Matching aftermarket steering wheel, handbrake cover, shift knob and floor mats

$100

RECARO(Millenium Edition) driver's seat

$800

unknown turbo timer(1-3 minute)

$20

post-18399-1208760076_thumb.jpg

Racing pedals

$10

BLACK Aluminium GT rear wing

$75

Indicators

$100 passenger side

post-18399-1208760519_thumb.jpg

$30 Drivers side (cracked and scuff mark)

post-18399-1208760915_thumb.jpg

Tail Light Centre Piece

$100

post-18399-1208761126_thumb.jpg

Wheels

UNKNOWN aftermarket 3 piece Rims

15x7.5inch front and back

some ridiculous offset(hang a good inch outside the guards)

Wrapped in Federal's 205 20% Tread

Perfect for AE86

$1000

AVS 16" rims

7.5" & 8"

wrapped in poor quality rubber

$400

Edited by SideWaysChef
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/214408-ceffy-has-gotta-go/
Share on other sites

Will get you a picture of the cage if you like....but engine is in car so cant really be bothered pulling it out for a picture.

Will work out a price for the aircon dash surround after the weekend mate. Can't remember what it looks like from memory...has been a long time since I sat in the drivers seat of it

Got a pic of the cage and the flywheel?

Also how much for the plastic that goes around the air con on the center of the dash

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...