Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have an rb25det series 1. finished hooking up the safc2 and all is working fine.

i have one query about the knock sensors though.

there are 2 knock sensor wires on the ecu one for cyl 1-3 and one for 5-6?? is this right?

to my knowledge there is only 1 knock sensor wire on the safc, do i need to tap into both of these wires? or is there a second knock wire from the safc2?

i have the knock sensor wire from safc tapped into one of the ecu knock sensors atm, but do not get any knock readings on the safc.

i assumed there would be a small amount of knock or is it because ive hooked it up wrong.

can someone please help me out with this and clear it up??

Thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/215240-safc-2-knock-sensor/
Share on other sites

APEXI DOCUMENTATION

Includes: Installation Manuals, Wiring Manuals, Technical FAQs

http://www.apexi-usa.com/support_main.asp

thanks zennon i have that printed out at home, but found it pretty much all over the shop and confusing. ill try and have a read through it again.

but from what i can see there is 1 wire from the safc for knock and it needs to be tapped into both knock wires on the ecu.

yeah as a whole its fairly easy, was just this knock sensor thing im a little unsure of.

just make sure all your connections are sweet. the splitters i used werent the best for the job and made a dodgy connection. caused me a bit of trouble.

nah the safc doesn't have two knock wires, just one. you need to get a multimeter and probe into both of the knock sensor wires at the ecu when the car is running. the one that has the higher voltage is the one you splice into.

2nd one in the thread - you're on a roll! :banana:

haha i didnt even notice the other one. slow day at work today... my brains not working

awesome thanks qwk32 :) i'll check that out.

should an untuned rb25det be getting a small amount of knock? it shouldnt always be at zero should it? i may have read that wrong somewhere though

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...