Jump to content
SAU Community

044 Return Valve

GreeceS13

By GreeceS13,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

green 33 Explorer

green 33

Posted
Posted

The valves will usually leak off anyway over a few hour period, and the way i figured it was with the valve there it actually restricts the flow from the pump so i completely drilled mine out, just when starting the car you have to let the pump prime to fill back up the lines

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

The non return valves need to be there in case one pump shuts down. If it does then the other will pump straight back to the tank instead of the fuel rail and you could have a wrecked engine on your hands so you have the non-return valves to make sure the fuel only goes to the engine.

GreeceS13 Rising Star

GreeceS13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The same told me my engineer! But if we have two 044 and one blow and the car run with one 044 it will blow the engine sure!!

If we have one fuel pump like stock cars if it blow, simple the engine stop to work...

What is your opinion?

Also GTRgeoff what do you have to said for the green 33 post?

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

It's just Geoff mate. We aren't formal here.

You have to be running a fair amount of power for a single 044 to be running at the limit. The reason for running 2 pumps after a swirl pot fed by a lift pump is to protect your investment in an expensive engine. If you lift your power requirements beyond that of a single pump (in which case there is an argument to run separate fuel lines from each pump) then you must get new pumps that will deliver the power you require.

As for drilling out the non-return valves, they are a restriction above a certain flow rate, but should not cause a problem at the flow rates expected from an 044. If you need more flow, get a larger valve. And yes they will often allow pressure loss in a standing fuel system but every fuel system has that in common. The reason for their existence is to stop the fuel finding the easiest route out, and that will be a pump that isn't running and pressure loss in an engine being pushed hard is almost a guarantee for a meltdown. Sure it may be a little more expensive to do it properly, and not as ghetto or drift cool as drilling them out for extra flow that isn't needed anyway, but it is definitely cheaper than lunching a motor.

GreeceS13 Rising Star

GreeceS13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have two 044 with surge tank and one walbro intank. The return from surge tank to fuel tank will have a stock fuel pressure regulator without any vacum so 2.5bar fuel pressure!!!

Geoff can a T04Z runs with one 044? All people here said me no in a topic! I need two! So if one stop work and the other continue to work?? What will be the result? A blow engine!!! Right?

If we have two and one stop work without non-return valves the fuel of the working pump will not go in the engine so we will avoid the lean running.

But we will have a little fuel that will injected in the engine... because the surge tank have 2.5bar fuel pressure..

So I will save my engine with this method? Or I will blow it too?

Sydneykid Grand Master

Sydneykid

Posted
Posted

If you have spent enough money on your engine to truly need 2 x 044's then you should spend the little bit extra and buy a fuel pressure guage. If you have a Power FC, then any leaning out will cause knock and the knock warning light will flash. If you ignore the low fuel pressure and/or the knock warning then nothing will save you.

If you don't have the one way valves, some of the fuel will still go to the engine, just less than what would flow if one pump failed and you had non return valves.

Cheers

Gary

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
If you have spent enough money on your engine to truly need 2 x 044's then you should spend the little bit extra and buy a fuel pressure guage. If you have a Power FC, then any leaning out will cause knock and the knock warning light will flash. If you ignore the low fuel pressure and/or the knock warning then nothing will save you.

If you don't have the one way valves, some of the fuel will still go to the engine, just less than what would flow if one pump failed and you had non return valves.

Cheers

Gary

I certainly wouldnt be running 40 psi fuel pressure in the surge tank, why not just plumb it up like everyone else does, it works fine?

GreeceS13 Rising Star

GreeceS13

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sidneykid so there is no difference in reliability either with non-return valves or without ?

Either with or not the result is a blow engine ? :rofl:

I have egt and wideband gauges with warning so I don't think that I need a fuel pressure gauge.

But think also.... if we have non-return valves and one pump don't work we will not understand it! Right?

So more dangerous!!

Maybe when the one pump stop to work to survive my engine... but if the car still works with one pump I will detonate it many times!!

But if you think that with 2.5 fpr at surge tank the one pump will feed the engine properly at low demand for fuel so I will still don't understand the non-work pump.. so if I don't put non-return valves better to don't use fpr to stop the fuel feed totally.

Adriano I like the idea of fuel pressure regulator at the surge because I will be sure that the surge tank is absolutely fuel.

Also if I choose to don't have non-return valves the lines will be empty so long try to start the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, a bit of a side trip, but one that might be interesting for people with JDM cars and japanese head units. I know @Pac previously posted about a carplay/android auto adapter he installed which used the AUX input, and @V35_Paul put in one of the Tesla style units that replace both screens. The option I went with was a Lsait LLT-YF-VER5.87_2 (https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Lsailt-8GB-Android-Multimedia-Interface-for_1601187633672.html). Price was $1,150 for a single unit although they are much cheaper if you are willing to buy 2....$857ea. Make you you get the version 2 not version 1, it is faster and has a better UI - this is the manufacturer listing: http://www.lsailt.com/product/348.html. BTW if you've never bought from Alibaba before, don't be concerned....these guys can't stay in business unless they are responsive, ship fast etc, they were excellent (probably faster shipping than most local places) So, this was my task for a lazy Sat afternoon....looks complex but was all done in a few hours (it probably helps that I had some of it apart before so it was a bit familiar). I also decided to add a HD USB drive recorded at the same time and the unit also supports an aftermarket reverse cam (if you don't want to retain factory) and also AV in and HDMI out It looks much worse than it is, in fact in was genuinely all plug and play (no custom wiring at all). This video was pretty good (skipped a few steps), unfortunately they are an Aussie seller but no longer sell this unit (I guess Carplay/AA adapters are easier to install and much cheaper) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5hJfYOB8Dg
    • Duncan
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By Duncan · Posted

      That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • Nizzy_R34
      r34's love to squeal

      By Nizzy_R34 · Posted

      just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
×
×
  • Create New...