Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The valves will usually leak off anyway over a few hour period, and the way i figured it was with the valve there it actually restricts the flow from the pump so i completely drilled mine out, just when starting the car you have to let the pump prime to fill back up the lines

The non return valves need to be there in case one pump shuts down. If it does then the other will pump straight back to the tank instead of the fuel rail and you could have a wrecked engine on your hands so you have the non-return valves to make sure the fuel only goes to the engine.

The same told me my engineer! But if we have two 044 and one blow and the car run with one 044 it will blow the engine sure!!

If we have one fuel pump like stock cars if it blow, simple the engine stop to work...

What is your opinion?

Also GTRgeoff what do you have to said for the green 33 post?

It's just Geoff mate. We aren't formal here.

You have to be running a fair amount of power for a single 044 to be running at the limit. The reason for running 2 pumps after a swirl pot fed by a lift pump is to protect your investment in an expensive engine. If you lift your power requirements beyond that of a single pump (in which case there is an argument to run separate fuel lines from each pump) then you must get new pumps that will deliver the power you require.

As for drilling out the non-return valves, they are a restriction above a certain flow rate, but should not cause a problem at the flow rates expected from an 044. If you need more flow, get a larger valve. And yes they will often allow pressure loss in a standing fuel system but every fuel system has that in common. The reason for their existence is to stop the fuel finding the easiest route out, and that will be a pump that isn't running and pressure loss in an engine being pushed hard is almost a guarantee for a meltdown. Sure it may be a little more expensive to do it properly, and not as ghetto or drift cool as drilling them out for extra flow that isn't needed anyway, but it is definitely cheaper than lunching a motor.

I have two 044 with surge tank and one walbro intank. The return from surge tank to fuel tank will have a stock fuel pressure regulator without any vacum so 2.5bar fuel pressure!!!

Geoff can a T04Z runs with one 044? All people here said me no in a topic! I need two! So if one stop work and the other continue to work?? What will be the result? A blow engine!!! Right?

If we have two and one stop work without non-return valves the fuel of the working pump will not go in the engine so we will avoid the lean running.

But we will have a little fuel that will injected in the engine... because the surge tank have 2.5bar fuel pressure..

So I will save my engine with this method? Or I will blow it too?

If you have spent enough money on your engine to truly need 2 x 044's then you should spend the little bit extra and buy a fuel pressure guage. If you have a Power FC, then any leaning out will cause knock and the knock warning light will flash. If you ignore the low fuel pressure and/or the knock warning then nothing will save you.

If you don't have the one way valves, some of the fuel will still go to the engine, just less than what would flow if one pump failed and you had non return valves.

Cheers

Gary

If you have spent enough money on your engine to truly need 2 x 044's then you should spend the little bit extra and buy a fuel pressure guage. If you have a Power FC, then any leaning out will cause knock and the knock warning light will flash. If you ignore the low fuel pressure and/or the knock warning then nothing will save you.

If you don't have the one way valves, some of the fuel will still go to the engine, just less than what would flow if one pump failed and you had non return valves.

Cheers

Gary

I certainly wouldnt be running 40 psi fuel pressure in the surge tank, why not just plumb it up like everyone else does, it works fine?

Sidneykid so there is no difference in reliability either with non-return valves or without ?

Either with or not the result is a blow engine ? :rofl:

I have egt and wideband gauges with warning so I don't think that I need a fuel pressure gauge.

But think also.... if we have non-return valves and one pump don't work we will not understand it! Right?

So more dangerous!!

Maybe when the one pump stop to work to survive my engine... but if the car still works with one pump I will detonate it many times!!

But if you think that with 2.5 fpr at surge tank the one pump will feed the engine properly at low demand for fuel so I will still don't understand the non-work pump.. so if I don't put non-return valves better to don't use fpr to stop the fuel feed totally.

Adriano I like the idea of fuel pressure regulator at the surge because I will be sure that the surge tank is absolutely fuel.

Also if I choose to don't have non-return valves the lines will be empty so long try to start the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
×
×
  • Create New...