Jump to content
SAU Community

Help Im Stuck... R34 Battery To Boot Wire Routes

spencer

By spencer,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

turbo_brian Community Regular

turbo_brian

Posted
Posted

I am assuming battery is in the engine bay, and you cant find a grommet to get the 4 guage power cable through (I had the same problem on the weekend with my R32 GTR).

On mine, I found a massive bunch of wires going into the driver side front guard area, and then coming through a monsterous grommet into the drivers side front foot well, so I ran my cable into here.

Removed the battery (you should do this anyways), jacked the car up, removed the front tire and wheel, unscrewed and unclipped the under-guard plastics, ran the power cable into the guard area from the engine bay and tied the cable up to leave enough spare cable for termination to my fuse, then pushed the cable through the grommet under the guard and had a friend drag it through inside the car.

Once it was all the way through, I used cable ties to lock the cable from movind inside the guard area (stops unwanted knocking noises and cable sheith wear) and then replaced the plastic, the wheel, and lowered the car back down to continue my install.

Side note: Not sure how well earthed the R34 is, but the stock 32 is not adequite, so you might want to think about upgrading the battery to chassis to engine block earth cable with a new battery terminal as well, or also think about an under-bonnet earthing kit, which will help reduce the chance of engine noise getting into your amp and being pumped through your speakers.

Also, run your sheilded RCA leads down the OTHER side of the car from the power run, keep them as far apart as possible to reduce cross-interference and induction being introduced into your RCA leads, and obviously into your amp, therefore being pumped into your speakers.

B.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...