Jump to content
SAU Community

Special Notes On Reaplacing Subframe With S14....

yokotas13

By yokotas13,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted

ok, so they are the same subframe....ALMOST.

S14 NA and Turbo, are both different in one aspect. The differential rear plate mounting. THe NA silvia s14 has them super close together, where the turbo version has them spaced the same as the WGNC34 diff cover.

ALSO, it is liek 40mm more narrow.....

I mean, everything fits. the axles are a tight fit, but they pop into their carriers, and nothing binds, hits anything, etc etc

SO, what does this mean?

IF you have a problem with your subframe, bent, broken, cracked, etc etc you can replace it with an S14 TURBO directly. no modification. your ebrake lines FEEL too tight, but they arent. pull on the handle a few times, and everythign settles nicely.

You are able to run 20mm less offset on each side, (IE if you were runnign a 9 inch +20offset you can now run a 9 inch +0 offset) with less work, OR even wider wheels if you wanted to with less work.

the entire swap takes about an hour and a half to 2 hours if you know what you are doing, and isnt super duper complicated.

just rememebr those brake lines and ebrake lines.

if this belongs somewhere else, please move!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hendasto
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By Hendasto · Posted

      Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • Hendasto
      Are RBs worth building reliability wise

      By Hendasto · Posted

      At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Songo
      New kid on the block

      By Songo · Posted

      Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • MBS206
      New kid on the block

      By MBS206 · Posted

      https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...