Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i got a r32 with rb25det in it (previously had 20det)

was just wondering if any one knew if i have to take it over the pits to get it properly rego'd.

or can i just get one of those change of vehical details forms ?

its been professionaly converted with recipts

also if i do have to go to the pits will the rest of the car have to be roadworthy? or just the engine

cheers dylan

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/
Share on other sites

I thought that if it is anything other than a factory upgrade then it had to go over the pits. (rb25de from gts-x in a r32)

This is how i read the papers but if im wrong please correct me as ill be doing a simillar thing.

Cheers

Ross

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3861782
Share on other sites

I got a yellow sticker (kind of unrelated..) just after I put the 30 in, went of the pits, they checked engine number, notarised it, and I was on my way with a legal RB30 under the bonnet :P

As long as you don't have a bigass highmount turbo there should be no dramas and I'm pretty sure RB25 falls inside the capacity increasement zone.. with my 50% increase I was afraid they were going to make me get engineering certificates.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3861790
Share on other sites

cheaper to engineer all at once though

Point being for certain engine upgrades you won't need engineering.

My RB30, even though it's a full litre increase (50%) they didn't deem to need engineering. Most likely because it looked factory and with only an RB25 turbo on there it wasn't insane, similar to stock response but just with a shitload of nuts down low.

I believe in taking things in steps instead of rocking up to the pits with a 50% larger engine with a 600hp turbo hanging off the side and then hoping it's going to get engineered and passed. I have the engine installed and licensed, when I go to get it legal after the GT35R goes on then the whole 50% more capacity is a problem I won't have to deal with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3864802
Share on other sites

i went from a 3L NA to 3L turbo (2j)

they didnt pay any attention to the high mount and just took the engine number and engineering cert

i know yours is a 50% increase but as long as they sign it off

i dont think it matters much which way goes first

other thing is, if you want to save money

pass with the rb25 or 30

then legalise it when u get a yellow? (if ever)

Edited by R32 Driver
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3872972
Share on other sites

I was planning on doing it all properly but got a sticker like 3 days after the 30 went in so I just had to hope that when I went over the pits they didn't decide to have a baby cow over it :)

Steve, did you get your tailshaft made at Final Drive? when I got mine done, Phil was telling me how he had recently made one for a guy that put a 2jz in his 32..

Edited by bubba
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3876822
Share on other sites

Hah yeah, plenty of cars kicking about with that sort of power and a few coming out with a LOT more..

I almost feel like I'm being a pussy shooting for 400rwhp to start with :) but really, that should be plenty in a rwd 32 platform!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3879502
Share on other sites

You WILL NEED AN ENGINEERS CERT!! the mark up is not 25%. I am current running around with a rb25 that isnt yet ticked off with vic roads as they wont allow it without a cert. I have been to vicroads over 5 times, each time with more evidence that the r32 came out with a rb25. Last 2 times i went they even cought up on it being a rb25de that came with the r32.

vicroads people also wont care less if its got a high mount turbo as big as the engine or a stock turbo, thats not why that knock you back. The last chick who looked for the engine number wouldnt have known what a turbo was. i have a high mount and that hasnt been the problem. So far, everytime i have gone, they have somehow noticed the engine size step up when typing on their computers so a message must come up saying it needs an engineers cert.

sorry to put a down on your plans but seriously, its not easy getting it passed. im ganna try a few more times at a different vicroads in the hope someone just doesnt pick up on it. Might be easier for you being in W.A but in victoria, it seems im ganna have to fork out like 4G to get this all cleared over :D

Edited by 7k R32 PLEASE!
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3881787
Share on other sites

You WILL NEED AN ENGINEERS CERT!! the mark up is not 25%. I am current running around with a rb25 that isnt yet ticked off with vic roads as they wont allow it without a cert. I have been to vicroads over 5 times, each time with more evidence that the r32 came out with a rb25. Last 2 times i went they even cought up on it being a rb25de that came with the r32.

vicroads people also wont care less if its got a high mount turbo as big as the engine or a stock turbo, thats not why that knock you back. The last chick who looked for the engine number wouldnt have known what a turbo was. i have a high mount and that hasnt been the problem. So far, everytime i have gone, they have somehow noticed the engine size step up when typing on their computers so a message must come up saying it needs an engineers cert.

sorry to put a down on your plans but seriously, its not easy getting it passed. im ganna try a few more times at a different vicroads in the hope someone just doesnt pick up on it. Might be easier for you being in W.A but in victoria, it seems im ganna have to fork out like 4G to get this all cleared over :geek:

Different state mate, shit works differently here.

Afterall, my car is licensed with a twincam 30 :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3882713
Share on other sites

Yes mate different state.....

Bubbas living proof that he doesnt need it

kermits ceffy also has a rb25 which originally was a rb20 (also in WA)

i went from NA to Turbo and strapped on a high mount

engineer cert would cost 500$ give or take a hundred depending on what you want engineered

emissions testing, db test, brake test would all be under $500

WA has it good? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/218847-rb25-in-my-32/#findComment-3882965
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...