Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,I need to know if it is possible to repair by airbrushing or any other means ,the surround facade that goes right around the stereo head unit and up behind the steering wheel and dash cluster on GTR33.When I got the headunit installed they scratched it and I would like to repair it if possible as it would be very expensive to replace.

Also any of you with shmick interiors that go to get a head unit installed or any thing requiring this piece to be removed, I would advise you to put masking tape around the surfaces on this part to avoid them scratching these surfaces,I wish I had but thought they would be more careful than they were ,considering the car they were working on.Cheers Grey Pearl.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/219153-dash-and-stereo-surround/
Share on other sites

in this section (Costmetic and Styling mods) go back to either page 2 or 3, there are i think 2 or 3 threads all about interior dash trim and removing/repainting it etc... a good read

EDIT: here done for ya..

strangely enough i thought there was more, but im sure a search will show it up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/34...nd-t205523.html

Edited by RusH_
in this section (Costmetic and Styling mods) go back to either page 2 or 3, there are i think 2 or 3 threads all about interior dash trim and removing/repainting it etc... a good read

EDIT: here done for ya..

strangely enough i thought there was more, but im sure a search will show it up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/34...nd-t205523.html

Thanx Rush, Awesome link ,now all I have to do is get the gutz to do it, shit scared of stuffing it up worse than it is now,anyone know how much a new surround is for GTR33?? Cheers Grey Pearl.

Not really, but it isnt worth it!! STUPIDLY expensive. You have a perfectly good one there, just repaint it. I was scared as well, but that your time and it should turn out well. Just plan your colour alot better then I did, otherwise you'll want to change it again later on... :blink:

Not really, but it isnt worth it!! STUPIDLY expensive. You have a perfectly good one there, just repaint it. I was scared as well, but that your time and it should turn out well. Just plan your colour alot better then I did, otherwise you'll want to change it again later on... :happy:
Thanx mate,Can you give me a run down on how to remove the dash facsia as I don't want to break anything and need to know what to watch out for. also does anyone know the correct colour name for the chocolate looking dash surround in gtr33's Cheers Grey Pearl. Edited by grey pearl

1. Take out the ash tray and remove the 2 screws behind

2. Take off the gear knob and pull the panel up from the back. It should just unclip

3. Remove the 3 screws from under the main dash section that is now visable

4. Slowly unclip all the clips around the dash section by gently pulling out.

5. Unclip/unscrew all the electronics attached to the surround

Pretty easy, good luck!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New CAS just turned up from NZ Wiring. Looks like a nice bit of gear.  So, yeah. Triggered, bro. Realised I may as well do the cam belt while mucking about with it so will order one of them.
    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
×
×
  • Create New...