Jump to content
SAU Community

Gtr Control Arms

Helious
 Share

Recommended Posts

Helious Rising Star

Helious

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Why on earth can i not edit my posts anymore even though I started the topic..

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has any hicas arms they do not want?

One of mine is bent (passangers side from front) and my lock bar allows me to attach the arms.

I'm not sure if anyone would notice this as it topic says control arms, which i want to change to hicas arms.

Cheers!

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted
Why on earth can i not edit my posts anymore even though I started the topic..

Anyway, just wondering if anyone has any hicas arms they do not want?

One of mine is bent (passangers side from front) and my lock bar allows me to attach the arms.

Cheers!

New editing policy is preventing you from touching your own topic after 2 hours.. complain in the "bugs / suggestions" section, i know i have :)

Do you mean ur lock bar doesn't allow you to attach the arms yah? Are you 100% they are bent, or have you assumed that because it seems impossible to thread the end into the lockbar?

I ask, as I it took me some good dicking around to get both sides in, and then the bar attached to the subframe.

Helious Rising Star

Helious

Posted
  • Author
Posted
New editing policy is preventing you from touching your own topic after 2 hours.. complain in the "bugs / suggestions" section, i know i have :)

Do you mean ur lock bar doesn't allow you to attach the arms yah? Are you 100% they are bent, or have you assumed that because it seems impossible to thread the end into the lockbar?

I ask, as I it took me some good dicking around to get both sides in, and then the bar attached to the subframe.

Sorry GeeTR wasnt specific. My lockbar can have the arms attached, but one of mine is bent. I have had the engine removed and decided to have the hicas completly removed (and attached a highflow line front powersteering rack to where ever to get the power steering working again) and i am putting the lockbar in.

I just am looking to see if anyone has brought a rear cradle or something and has a spare arm lying around, and also whether the left hand side arm differs from the right.

THANKS!!

GeeTR Grand Master

GeeTR

Posted
Posted

So it is bent - oh boo! :)

As a side topic, its a shame, even with teh lockbar in, that those arm ball joints still wear over time. Would be good if someone made up a way to SOLIDALLY lock them in place in fashion that negated wear. :)

Good luck, try SSS automotive wreckers and such.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...