Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yo so i just got a cushioned button exedy or exidy clutch, meant to take 300kw

Anyways car is a stock gtr running 12psi-ish(so like has 200ish)

I can hear heaps of noise now coming from the gearbox, it used to always be dead quiet, whether i'm using clutch or not it's noisey, if i have it in 3rd and just cruising it's loudest (it used to be dead quiet) sounds like it's missing a baffle plate or smtn

+ it's hugely gutless now, it doesn't come onto boost very hard and doesn't increase in power after about 4k, it used to slam u right back till 7k

That last bit makes no sense to me, as the old clutch was slipping ( believe) and this one doesnt seem to be slipping (it'd rev out faster but go slower if it was slipping), revs just seem to take forever

Any suggestions?

GOnna take it back on monday but just wanna know it's not something bad ^^

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/221664-new-clutch-huge-power-loss-noisey/
Share on other sites

Hey i have one of those clutches.. mine got pretty loud one day after a lot of launches sounded like alot of sound or something grinding up.. your suppose to run them in gently for 500kms before any harsh driving or high revv drops.. that may account for the noise as for the lack of power something definately sounds amiss.. you should probally try not to drive it until you can take it back on monday incase you damage something ... does it still drive smoothly.. and stuttering? is it still hitting the same boost? maybe the noise could possibly be another problem?

hope u get it sorted

Cheers

Jarrod

Nah i haven't revved it hard or dropped it, i've taken it to redline twice, he said it'd be fine to rev out just no drops or slam shifts.. the noise was there from when i started it pretty much

It still drives totally fine, and seems ok.. just the sound is hell loud and the power loss is massive up top, got it sitting in garage atm waiting for mondy :<

sucks cos now i cant affrd to go out this weekend and i got no car to drive around haha

the only noise my brass button makes is when u try to engage it at to low revvs, it makes a clunking noise other than that its lovely n silent.. definately sounds like they messed something up maybe apart of the clutch hitting on the puks.. im no clutch mechanic tho but it could account for the noise and power loss, they should of test driven it and noticed that, aswell as you should of gotten half way down the street turned around n taken it back

my cars left me broke, many of weekends.. the joys of driving a import lol

yeh so anyway it was the stupid clutch boot that sits underneath the shifter.. some spud had only put 3 bolts in it so one corner was sitting right up.. i took it for a drive with the mech and he wasnt sure, got it home and figured it out myself

But i still gotta figure out where i lost power, i'm guessing some wiring has been moved/messed up when they dropped the box out.. probably my afm's.. i got shitty luck with em

It's all smooth still, but the power is gone as well.. i've had this problem before but i cant remember how i fixed it.. i'm thinking some wiring or smtn got bumped when they pulled the box out..it's about as fast as my mates tx3 haha >< doesnt push u back at all, drives fine though, just realll slow.. gonna make a topic in forced induction to get some suggestions, farkn finally get the new clutch and the car ends up slower haha, i cant take it back to put it on the dyno yet either until the clutch has a few hundred k's on it

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...