Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i was going to clean AFM when i noticed that my air tube (the one that goes to my turbo) is full of dust, mud and probably oil - all this is mixed in there.... then i took off all pipes that goes in and out of intercooler - they all had oil in them... is it normal? i guess it's not. my AIR filter looks ok... air tubes is without cracks, i don't understand how all that mud got in there...

is there a way to clean all the pipes? i guess all this mud gets into the engine too :P

also, when i remove AIR filter when the car is running (idle) the engine's revs start to jump and engine works unstable...

i guess dirty pipes are the reason of this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22270-air-tube-and-turbo-piping/
Share on other sites

the car idles fine with air filter, but once i remove it - revs start jumping. but engine never stalls. maybe it's becuase more air is coming in and ECU do not control fuel when idling?? but i think that air flow increase is very very little without air filter.

confused again :P did you notice anything similar to this on your car, Boostd?

btw, what is TPS?

The ECU does control fuel at idle(closed loop) removing your Air filter will stuff up your vaccum levels and the wierd idle is you ECU trying to control whats going on. I find my car idles wierd when its due for an oil change. When to oil gets to thin... ie less than 5w. The manual recommends 7.5w 30 oil. I have tried 0w 40 and my car hates the thin oil at idle and starts hunting.

TPS= Throttle Position Sensor

i've found out that different oils with same specs act differently.

i used Shell 5w40 (the worst oil - doesn't keep with load), Castrol 10w60 - quite good and it looks like my turbine likes it and Hassol 5w40 - same quality as Castrol, but MUCH cheaper (use it now)....

though i want to try Motul oil, once it will be delivered here. heard it's good

Mobil here (in Russia) is of a VERY bad quality... maybe it's russian mafia who spoils good oil and selling fake instead of original :D

anyway, 0w40 is too liquid for turbo cars (imho), as the temperatures are much higher in tubro cars and this oil can just dissappear in some parts of the engine and all the pulleys (or gears - forgot the right word) will work without oil film... that happened to my engine with Shell 5w40 - my turbine started to switch off under heavy boost...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...