Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys, I've been having this oil leak for over 2 months now.

I've taken it to 3 different mechanics - Phil: J-Shop, Tim:Sik Em Rex Racing, and Fabian:Autobahn/Xspeed.

Believe it or not, no one knows where it's coming from. Phil, the initial person who found the leak said it was teh Oil Pressure Switch, where I then paid $250 to get that replaced, to find weeks later it made no difference.

And the other 2 had a look and didn't know where it was coming from. The oil levels are still good, as they've been flushed twice since then during servicing.

I'm going to take it to Fabian again to see if he can take a long look at the area it's dripping.

But before I do, just wondering if anyone has any ideas of where else it could be coming from, that I can ask the mechs to check out if they havn't already.

Facing the engine, we're talking bout 5 inches further towards the back of the bay from the oil filter.

Drips seem to be originating from around the oil pressure switch area.

I'm stumped guys, any ideas?

Edited by Magic
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224910-oil-leak/
Share on other sites

^ +1

the only oil fittings on that side of the engine are the oil filter mount itself and a small fitting in the block a little further back from the filter (it would normally have a bung in it), check both of those as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224910-oil-leak/#findComment-3961207
Share on other sites

How fast is the leak? Could you clean the area, idle it on a car hoist and watch underneath carefully?

Theres the oil temp sender on the front side of the oil filter bracket as well (26 at least)

Oil filter hasn't pinched its o-ring as it?

Edited by GeeTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224910-oil-leak/#findComment-3961248
Share on other sites

It's def not the oil filter as I replace that every 5,000km, and no leak around the filter itself, its further back from that by the pressure switch. I think Lazy-Bastard and 335 are on the money.

I'll keep those ideas in mind when it goes for a fix.

It's just really strange how 3 Skyline specialists couldn't find the problem.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/224910-oil-leak/#findComment-3961256
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...