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R32 Gtr Suspension Set Up...


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another no on that one,

cars will weigh very different, have very different leverage ratios and very different suspension geometry and handling caracteristics, combine all this and you get a mess of spring rate and valving rate.

the G4's use a very small stack of shims, small in diameter, that is why they have such high spring rate to compensate for the lack of shim technology. SMALL = BAD FLOW

bilstein and koni use very large shims and with years of testing and teasting.

NOTE, im not going into the fine details of shims as we would be here for weeks, so if anyone is going to give me greif, im just trying to get my point across.

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these camber pins(they r an offset bush arnt they) that sk was talking about, do they need to be pressed in for the front and rear, how is the traction rod adjusted correctly this affects bump steer doesnt it?

i understand what u mean about the shocks then aswell as being shit

Edited by benr32gtr
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the offset bush needs to be pressed in, not a hard job, a vice will do.(camber pins are for cars with a different suspesion design, in r32's case it is the uper arm that dictates the camber)

traction rod, this is one of the top arms in the multi link rear end, one top arm will change camber but when you change one length of one arm (shorter or longer) and leave the others the same length you are changing the path of the movement. there are 4 arms in the rear. to get the path correct you must marry the 2 top arms the same length. ie if you corrected camber by lengthening the arm by 5mm you must lengthen the traction rod buy 5mm also.

this also goes for the front arms, but a offset tierod end can cure this problem, just jap and UAS sell them but be sure to get the amount of bump steer measured by some one who knows how to because if you offset the tierods too much you will end up with the same amount or more of bump steer in the opposite direction.

hope all this makes sense.

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