Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, sorry if this is a common question, I had a search through the forum and couldn't find an answer.

My problem is I'm currently selling a 1989 R32 non turbo, it was brought in about 4 years ago I think (just as it turned 15 years old) and was sold to me with 12 months rego and a blueslip, I have been registering it every year with just a regular old pinkslip, nothing else. The guy that is buying it is super hesitant about it due to the fact it doesn't have an australian compliance plate on it, just the blue japanese one. I lost all the import approval/blueslip etc when I moved, so this guy is sketchy that it's a rebirth or something. There is no other plate from what I can see other than the blue one.

Would this actually need a plate?

Why is the chassis number on the blue plate slightly different to that on my rego papers (on the rego papers it has another 7 digits in front of the chassis number, if you removed the first 7 digits from my rego paper, the chassis number is the same as the jap one if that makes sense.)

The rego paper has a note at the bottom left that says "modified as per report ###random number here###"

Where would I direct him to check it out to prove to him that it is ok if so. Is there a government department I could give him the number to?

It comes up clean on both a REVS check and an RTA check, I've been pulled over plenty and never had a problem either.

URGENT HELP NEEDED to help this guy feel safer, it's a bloody good car and I'm selling it to him dirt cheap due to unforeseen circumstances. Last thing I wanna do is rip him off or bugger him around.

Cheers for any help guys.

Aussie cars have extra numbers in their vin number.

it is usually the ones thrown infront of the jap number. so there is no problem there,

as for the compliance tag, thats not an issue with 15 year old imports. you should also have a tag of your new Australian vin number on the car somewhere too, usually just a long alloy plate with the numbers that appear on your rego.

Look for the new vin engraved some where in the engine bay, usually the fire wall or strut tower.

Mine only has the new vin engraved on the drivers side strut tower. Those compliance plates were introduced later on after your car was imported, there is alot of imports (most are r32's) with out that plate.

Sweet, thanks heaps for your help guys. After completely servicing it and replacing a bunch of parts, spending all day trimming it and putting a new cd deck in it, He just pulled out 2 seconds ago anyway due to parental concerns..... spewin cos he would have loved it.

Will post it up for sale in the classifieds now to see if there's any interest.

Thanks again guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...