Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, sorry if this is a common question, I had a search through the forum and couldn't find an answer.

My problem is I'm currently selling a 1989 R32 non turbo, it was brought in about 4 years ago I think (just as it turned 15 years old) and was sold to me with 12 months rego and a blueslip, I have been registering it every year with just a regular old pinkslip, nothing else. The guy that is buying it is super hesitant about it due to the fact it doesn't have an australian compliance plate on it, just the blue japanese one. I lost all the import approval/blueslip etc when I moved, so this guy is sketchy that it's a rebirth or something. There is no other plate from what I can see other than the blue one.

Would this actually need a plate?

Why is the chassis number on the blue plate slightly different to that on my rego papers (on the rego papers it has another 7 digits in front of the chassis number, if you removed the first 7 digits from my rego paper, the chassis number is the same as the jap one if that makes sense.)

The rego paper has a note at the bottom left that says "modified as per report ###random number here###"

Where would I direct him to check it out to prove to him that it is ok if so. Is there a government department I could give him the number to?

It comes up clean on both a REVS check and an RTA check, I've been pulled over plenty and never had a problem either.

URGENT HELP NEEDED to help this guy feel safer, it's a bloody good car and I'm selling it to him dirt cheap due to unforeseen circumstances. Last thing I wanna do is rip him off or bugger him around.

Cheers for any help guys.

Aussie cars have extra numbers in their vin number.

it is usually the ones thrown infront of the jap number. so there is no problem there,

as for the compliance tag, thats not an issue with 15 year old imports. you should also have a tag of your new Australian vin number on the car somewhere too, usually just a long alloy plate with the numbers that appear on your rego.

Look for the new vin engraved some where in the engine bay, usually the fire wall or strut tower.

Mine only has the new vin engraved on the drivers side strut tower. Those compliance plates were introduced later on after your car was imported, there is alot of imports (most are r32's) with out that plate.

Sweet, thanks heaps for your help guys. After completely servicing it and replacing a bunch of parts, spending all day trimming it and putting a new cd deck in it, He just pulled out 2 seconds ago anyway due to parental concerns..... spewin cos he would have loved it.

Will post it up for sale in the classifieds now to see if there's any interest.

Thanks again guys.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...