Jump to content
SAU Community

Original Boost Solenoid Question

commiedave

By commiedave,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

commiedave Newbie

commiedave

Posted
Posted

Hi guys. Just bought an R33 gts-t and looking for some help and advice on reconnecting the original boost solenoid, as when I picked the car up it had a bunch of hose ends filled with screws.

I've searched about and haven't found any pictures which make it totally clear what goes where. Here is what I have:

Solenoid.jpg

The hose marked 2 is joined here behind the I/C pipework (is this standard?):

connection.jpg

Am I right in thinking that hose 1 (from the I/C pipe work) needs to have a restrictor in it and is tee'd with the hose marked 2 and connected to B on the boost solenoid, leaving hose 3 to be connected to A.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/225663-original-boost-solenoid-question/
Share on other sites
Alex_r33s2gts25t Enthusiast

Alex_r33s2gts25t

Posted
Posted

Ey dave... the original boost solenoid is being bypassed completely..

(on the boost solenoid)

A goes to the wastegate actuator

B goes to intercooler piping

What other mods came with the car? And why u wanna run the original boost solenoid anyway? I cant work out what why yours is set up that way dont have enough knowledge lol maybe others can shed light here...

what boost is your car running?

have a look at this thread for pics

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...hl=manual+boost

commiedave Newbie

commiedave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the advice. The car is running the low 0.5 bar boost all the time so getting the standard solenoid plumbed back in would be an improvement! As to other mods its been lowered, and had a cat back exhaust replacement. Engine is standard (other than the bypassed solenoid!).

Having done a bit more poking about looking to connect to the waste gate actuator I've run into a couple of problems. Firstly the connection is on the bottom and not on the top of the actuator like the other pictures/diagrams:

DSC00044a.jpg

And secondly it is connected to something further back towards the turbo:

DSC00045a.jpg

The photo is a bit rubbish but essentially the hose from the actuator (back shown on the left) is connected to the bottom of that nut in the centre of the picture.

Is the actuator standard, and is it connected correctly? Do I need to tee into this to connect it to the solenoid? Or have I got it all wrong?

Any help is much appreciated.

Cheers,

Dave

Alex_r33s2gts25t Enthusiast

Alex_r33s2gts25t

Posted
Posted

i should add where A goes to the intercooler piping: the intercooler hose connects to the other hose grouped with the one comming from the actuator with a T-peice and its this that connects to the boost solenoid.

Your actuator looks ok????? i cant tell, Is there a hose comming out the top? It looks like the grouped hoses have been moved and pulled up onto the intake manifold??? I cant tell lol

take a couple photos from a little further back (engine bay) so we can see the whole picture (both sides of the intercooler piping)

commiedave Newbie

commiedave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Once again many thanks.

Here are some wider angle shots to show the carnage surrounding the boost solenoid and the extra tee behind the I/C pipe (the blocked off hose from the T in the last picture can be seen just below the I/C pipe):

DSC00051a.jpg

DSC00052a.jpg

DSC00053a.jpg

There is no hose coming from the top of the actuator, just one from the bottom, which is connected towards the turbo (not sure what its connected to see the second photo in my second post just behind the actuator rod)with a loop of hose. This looks original but I'm assuming it can't be because its supposed to be tee'd in with the line from the I/C pipework before being connected to the solenoid is it not?

Cheers,

Dave

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

stock should look like think (i think)

Your actuator doesn't look stock cause of where the hose is connected. Should be up like the one in my picture, not down. Maybe a series1, i don't know

1 goes to a T joint then splits out to your turbo actuator. The other hose from T goes to A.

B goes to 3.

2 is not standard. I don't know why it is connected this way.

post-48477-1214615786_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1214615799_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1214615815_thumb.jpg

Edited by teng
commiedave Newbie

commiedave

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Awesome! :D

Just what I needed, I will be re-plumbing accordingly!

It is definitely a series 2 engine (1996 car, and no spark amplifier on the back of the engine block). Any ideas as to the connection back to the turbo? Even though this is not the stock actuator, will there be any problems plumbing it in as stock and blocking off the connection to the turbo?

Cheers,

Dave

teng Rising Star

teng

Posted
Posted (edited)

Just try connecting it to stock first. You may need a longer hose as the actuator hole is at the bottom.

Two more attachments just for info.

Was there any problems with the car when you drove it. Any difference in power when all the hoses are connected like on your 1st and 2nd image? I don't know why the solenoid was by-passed, could it be defective hence the previous owner did it this way.

post-48477-1214692084_thumb.jpg

post-48477-1214692118_thumb.jpg

Edited by teng
Alex_r33s2gts25t Enthusiast

Alex_r33s2gts25t

Posted
Posted

What does the actuator of an r32 look like? One way to increase the boost in the r33 is to install the actuator from an r32 as the spring is preset to 10psi... i dunno if this has anything to do with the way yours has been moded or not as i haven't looked at an r32 engine...

TaKz Proficient

TaKz

Posted
Posted

you said your running the low 0.5 bar boost ?

but stock skylines run 7psi (0.5 bar) from like 5000rpm as high and 5psi as low

so if you connect the stock boost solenoid back it will run the the above mention set up and the car will feel slower?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
    • GTSBoy
      DeAgostini 1/8 scale BNR32 Nissan Skyline GT-R Nismo

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      That's hilariously putrid!
    • GTSBoy
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
×
×
  • Create New...