Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys my tie rod ends are shagged so want to replace them with brand new spankers and might aswell change the rod aswell.

been looking around on kudos and nengun but everything seems to be expensive and they seem to be the only places online that i can see that have r32 gtst tie rods and ends. i'm trying to spend only $200- for these.

so i kept searching and i came across tune agent. they sell these http://www.tuneagent.com.au/public/merchan...Item.aspx?id=22 . for about $225 posted that seems like a good price for tie rods + ends that give better performance then standard.

anyone used these before? reliable? quality made? any problems? good extra lock? can anyone show me a better for that price or even show me where to buy standard ones?

let me know guys and whoever has had them in their cars tell me what you think.

jake.

We have replaced 4 sets in customer cars due to knocking caused by wear of spherical joints exacerbated by the lack of dust covers.

file_440.jpg

As well as no dust covers for the spherical joints you have to reuse the standard boots on the rack ends, which on an R32 is not a good idea. If you MUST use them then my advice would be to spend the extra time and effort buying dust covers and new boots.

Cheers

Gary

Unless you have a specific need for increasing the steering lock (eg; drifting) or you are attempting to adjust out some bump steer, the best choice is the standard set up. There are 2 different length rack ends in R32's, 258 mm or 280 mm, they appear randomly in different models. So you need to measure yours to make sure you get the right ones. The price is the same, RRP is $43 each, Group Buy discount makes that $37 each. The tie rod ends are the same regardless which rack end, they are RRP $31 each, Group Buy discount makes that $26 each. So the total cost for all 4 items is $127 and that includes delivery. PM me for details

For DIY, simply measure the current length of the rack ends and adjust the new ones to the same length. Then when you install them in the car the alignment (toe) should be pretty close to where it is now. As always it is advisable to get the wheel alignment checked, but at least you can drive the car for a few days until you make it to the workshop.

Cheers

Gary

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...