Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those Blitz units are a bit old, whereas the avc-r are current units. Hey, it depends on what you want. If you just want an EBC just to control boost, then the Blitz is fine. If you want and EBC with bells and whistles, then you cant go wrong with the avc-r, E-01 or SBC-iD III. Considering some shops sell the AVC-R for $1200-1300, $700 is good value.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22783-pfc-and-ebc/#findComment-491796
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

HKS EVC is the best by far! :D

rs73, you can just leave the factory solenoid there, but u have to pull one of the vacuum hoses off and put it onto the stepping motor.

also, 2nd hand boost controllers are good value, but if the stepping motor goes, then your only option is to purchase a whole new unit.. which could cost you more in the end.

a HKS EVC 4 your looking at around $990, so they are no cheap, and a fair bit more than the AVC-R.

Other option is the boost control kit for the pfc, but it can only be changed using a handcontroller which i think would be a pain.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22783-pfc-and-ebc/#findComment-558541
Share on other sites

Hi,

Thx for the reply.

I actually found an HKS EVC EZ-II, which is exactly has the same Stepping Motor & Control Unit found in the HKS EVC 4. Price is quite a bargain at less than $650.

The unit is upgradable to full HKS EVC 4 by buying the optional screen which part# is provided in case I wanna order one. I decided this is the best one to go as I can add the screen later when I have a spare $300 lying around. The screen adds a "beep beep" overboost warning function :D and password protection, and scramble boost, which would not be really needed for my everyday use right now.

It's sitting right here @ home, cant wait to put it on...

Dave, is it still possible to remove the factory solenoid completely? as I was told that the factory solenoid can sometime interferes or confuses the ECU when used in conjunction with aftermarket boost controllers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22783-pfc-and-ebc/#findComment-559056
Share on other sites

Originally posted by 2fardown

Only $700??  That's a lot of money to spend on a boost controller.  You can pick up second hand Blitz units for $395 from www.hikariperformance.com

Agreed. Too much to pay. I bought a blitz twin solenoid unit off these forums for $250 and it works a treat with the PowerFC. The trade off is your Commander won't/can't display boost pressure - easily fixed with a gauge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22783-pfc-and-ebc/#findComment-559737
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...