Jump to content
SAU Community

NA 1996 R33 Question

Guest Munky

By Guest Munky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest Munky

Guest Munky

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I'm currently considering buying this car:

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/usedcars/stat...34/vehicle.html

I'm going to look at it this weekend, and have already done some investigation into insurance (3rd party around $500 a year with Just Cars)

I saw the other insurance thread, but was just wondering if anyone knew if there are any insurance companies which I could register the car under my dads name for full comp, and have me listed as a second driver. A few of my mates have told me about it but I dunno who to goto to ask about it.

Also, I was just wondering what are the specifications for a NA Skyline (like kws, 0-100 etc) Any figures would be good!

Finally, do you guys think thats a good deal? The 'minor damage' would cost about 500$ to fix, and the car is well within my budget, which means I could get quite a few mods done to it.

Cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22923-na-1996-r33-question/
Share on other sites
Guest Munky

Guest Munky

Posted
Posted

Oh and by the way, the reason why I'm not getting a turbo is just due to the fact that I want to spend < 20k but still get an R33 with fairly low ks. I could get a recent turbo, but when you go over 20k I think its a bit risky for your first car! I might turbo it once I get more experienced in driving.

Darker Enthusiast

Darker

Posted
Posted

Hey Munky, welcome, and good reason for going NA.

Pretty much any insurance company will insure the car under your dad's name, as long as it's registered under his name, and isnt financed by someone else (eg, you)

As for being a nominated driver, that just means you will pay some more money, especially on any claims excess.

Again, attack the phones and ask, prices are always different depending on the circumstances <- a version of that sentence is in every insurance thread.

As for power, around 7s 0-100 stock, best normally mid 6s with many $$ spent.

Kws anything from 140 up at the flywheel, again depending on mods, wear, age etc

Final answer, and you didnt even ask the question, use the search button. Saves time, saves us all going over the same stuff everytime someone is buying a line. I know i asked all this stuff myself of the search page, and she didnt let me down once.

One day i dream of starting a new thread...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...