Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

primordial how simple is it to do an ecu reset??

thanks

This is how I reset the ECU on my Subaru. I image the same will work. Its not the proper way to do it, but its by far the simplest. Its the simplest because I don't remember the other way.

How to reset the ECU, battery dance styles.

NOTE: Do this on a "cold" engine. Leave it sit overnight and do it in the morning.

1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal cable for 45-60 minutes.

2. Reconnect the negative battery terminal cable.

3. Turn off all your accessories.

4. Start the car, but DO NOT touch the throttle at all.

5. Let the car idle for 10-15 minutes, or until the car is at normal operating temperature. Again, do not touch the throttle.

6. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position. That's it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4032889
Share on other sites

primordial how simple is it to do an ecu reset??

thanks

take the battery off and leave off for 24hrs

but sounds like you have an electric short some where. might be best to take it to an auto electrician

Yeah as Mitch said - your best bet is to contact an auto electrician.

There's almost no way the ECU can decide to start the car itself... its an electrical circuit that is most likely shorting somewhere and starting the car... Just thinking though, how could the car possibly have run the starter motor for the specific amount of time needed to start the car? If it was properly shorted it would have grinded the starter motor into oblivion when the car started and the starter kept going..

Very odd problem! :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4032920
Share on other sites

yer very true i just had a quick look at sum stuff on car and the turbo timer is not a turbo timer its wats left of a remote start alarm but only ignition loom runs through it no extras.and its all jap writein so dont have a clue wat its set on. i also droped hand break 2 kill it and it stoped i traced one wire 2 nand break switch.

Edited by skyl1ne r33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4032934
Share on other sites

yer very true i just had a quick look at sum stuff on car and the turbo timer is not a turbo timer its wats left of a remote start alarm but only ignition loom runs through it no extras.and its all jap writein so dont have a clue wat its set on. i also droped hand break 2 kill it and it stoped i traced one wire 2 nand break switch.

That hurt my head to read and I still don't understand it :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4033067
Share on other sites

yer very true i just had a quick look at sum stuff on car and the turbo timer is not a turbo timer its wats left of a remote start alarm but only ignition loom runs through it no extras.and its all jap writein so dont have a clue wat its set on. i also droped hand break 2 kill it and it stoped i traced one wire 2 nand break switch.

Well it sounds like you're onto it now anyway. Get it removed. It's probably more of a security risk than a help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4033157
Share on other sites

yer very true i just had a quick look at sum stuff on car and the turbo timer is not a turbo timer its wats left of a remote start alarm but only ignition loom runs through it no extras.and its all jap writein so dont have a clue wat its set on. i also droped hand break 2 kill it and it stoped i traced one wire 2 nand break switch.

whatever you do, do not cut the handbrake wire, unless you know how to remove that alarm, and get the car sorted. ( cutting the wire will disable the car and you won't be able to start it. had this on my old car took me ages to find)

if not take it to an auto electrician, or call a Mobile alarm guy and they should be able to take it out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/229413-wtf/#findComment-4033203
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Make sure you use the spherical bushes** on the lower arms, ifyou do that. ** at least, if not the whole replacement lower arm.
    • The tap for coolant flow control will be stuck open. It's not just the air door motor that dies.
    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
×
×
  • Create New...