Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 177
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Nah I don't wanna drive yours to see the handling, just the 30DET (and do a burnout, jump out the door and leg it)

You don't know where I live right?

Paul, $1200

How bout I take you for a ride.. I mean.. drive :D

*shrug* stock for stock a 33 is a better prospect than a 32 but for minimal mods I believe a 32 is better (upgrade parts off later skylines to be used). For massive mods then it comes down to personal preference, I know I'd prefer to waste heaps of money on a 32gtst, but that's just me :starwars:

Unless its a GTR

32 loses in every department

This aint a war its a slaughter!

Lucky I have a 32R then... and im sure Bubba's 25/30 will pwn all.

We haz teh power & teh good looks, the 33 is the ugly fat girl with a nice personality.

No 33 vs. 32 war, its a slaughter :(

Indeed it shall! Went for a ride in an interesting car last night Tristran.. you would like :(

Can't spill too many details coz it's secret squirrel shit, but if you're up for a random spontaneous cruise this weekend, let me know :P

People who heavily modify there car like bubba i give respect

but were talkin 33 vs 32 without any drastic changes (eg engine conversions)

so yes 33 > 32 no debate! and.... 32 isnt hawt either, old interior, ghey ass bonnet bend (unless GTR) not to mention piss weak

Yeah! I gotz rezpekt y0! :P

I find the 32gtst to be a good starter as far as getting into modding cars go. Lots of cheap upgrades off the newer skylines such as 25 turbo, 33 brakes etc. Then you get into motors out of the newer skylines, I opted for a different route and built something that doesn't come standard in any car :D

Indeed it shall! Went for a ride in an interesting car last night Tristran.. you would like :laugh:

Can't spill too many details coz it's secret squirrel shit, but if you're up for a random spontaneous cruise this weekend, let me know :D

so mikes got the 32 going? ;)

People who heavily modify there car like bubba i give respect

but were talkin 33 vs 32 without any drastic changes (eg engine conversions)

so yes 33 > 32 no debate! and.... 32 isnt hawt either, old interior, ghey ass bonnet bend (unless GTR) not to mention piss weak

I've had the R33 and R32 varients of the gtst and I think there's very little in it appart from taste in car looks. Both of my cars could run low 13's with the stock turbo.

have to admit, my mate has GTS4 RB20 stock with fmic + basics, had NO balls, he's just finished RB25 conversion i havent been in it as yet, but he says its BIG improvement. he's having partay tonight will have to snap a pic/drive before too many beers.

has the look of the R32 + RB25.. ftw

I've had the R33 and R32 varients of the gtst and I think there's very little in it appart from taste in car looks. Both of my cars could run low 13's with the stock turbo.

Ive also had both r33 and R32 GTST varients

exterior can come down to personal choice but interior the 33 is light years ahead

bolt on some mods and the rb20 will be left behind

the 33 gearbox will also handle much more abuse then a r32 gearbox

another thing is stock vs stock

r32 runs 10psi r33 runs 7psi?

R32 GTST 9-12k

R33 GTST 10-14k

R34 GT-T 23-25k

34 more torquey engine compared to the 33

stronger gearbox again

larger rear turbo housing then the 33 turbo (same as a 33 turbo compressor side but with a vg30 rear housing stamped as OP6)

slightly more top end power

R34 is awesome but for money you cant go past a 33 bang for buck

so mikes got the 32 going? :O

lol yeah, when I posted that it hadn't been tuned. Went for a ride on Sunday after it was tuned and man.. that thing is fkn FAST! (just ask Tristran.. he was trying to keep up and failed miserably :sick:)

You should come for a blat sometime, need to see how it goes against a real car :ban:

Edited by bubba
lol yeah, when I posted that it hadn't been tuned. Went for a ride on Sunday after it was tuned and man.. that thing is fkn FAST! (just ask Tristran.. he was trying to keep up and failed miserably :sick:)

You should come for a blat sometime, need to see how it goes against a real car :ban:

:O Its true... awesome car, poor Matty got left back on the horizon, at least i stayed in closeish lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • When I said "wiring diagram", I meant the car's wiring diagram. You need to understand how and when 12V appears on certain wires/terminals, when 0V is allowed to appear on certain wires/terminals (which is the difference between supply side switching, and earth side switching), for the way that the car is supposed to work without the immobiliser. Then you start looking for those voltages in the appropriate places at the appropriate times (ie, relay terminals, ECU terminals, fuel pump terminals, at different ignition switch positions, and at times such as "immediately after switching to ON" and "say, 5-10s after switching to ON". You will find that you are not getting what you need when and where you need it, and because you understand what you need and when, from working through the wiring diagram, you can then likely work out why you're not getting it. And that will lead you to the mess that has been made of the associated wires around the immobiliser. But seriously, there is no way that we will be able to find or lead you to the fault from here. You will have to do it at the car, because it will be something f**ked up, and there are a near infinite number of ways for it to be f**ked up. The wiring diagram will give you wire colours and pin numbers and so you can do continuity testing and voltage/time probing and start to work out what is right and what is wrong. I can only close my eyes and imagine a rat's nest of wiring under the dash. You can actually see and touch it.
    • So I found this: https://www.efihardware.com/temperature-sensor-voltage-calculator I didn't know what the pullup resistor is. So I thought if I used my table of known values I could estimate it by putting a value into the pullup resistor, and this should line up with the voltages I had measured. Eventually I got this table out of it by using 210ohms as the pullup resistor. 180C 0.232V - Predicted 175C 0.254V - Predicted 170C 0.278V - Predicted 165C 0.305V - Predicted 160C 0.336V - Predicted 155C 0.369V - Predicted 150C 0.407V - Predicted 145C 0.448V - Predicted 140C 0.494V - Predicted 135C 0.545V - Predicted 130C 0.603V - Predicted 125C 0.668V - Predicted 120C 0.740V - Predicted 115C 0.817V - Predicted 110C 0.914V - Predicted 105C 1.023V - Predicted 100C 1.15V 90C 1.42V - Predicted 85C 1.59V 80C 1.74V 75C 1.94V 70C 2.10V 65C 2.33V 60C 2.56V 58C 2.68V 57C 2.70V 56C 2.74V 55C 2.78V 54C 2.80V 50C 2.98V 49C 3.06V 47C 3.18V 45C 3.23V 43C 3.36V 40C 3.51V 37C 3.67V 35C 3.75V 30C 4.00V As before, the formula in HPTuners is here: https://www.hptuners.com/documentation/files/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm?Highlight=defining a transform Specifically: In my case I used 50C and 150C, given the sensor is supposedly for that. Input 1 = 2.98V Output 1 = 50C Input 2 = 0.407V Output 2 = 150C (0.407-2.98) / (150-50) -2.573/100 = -0.02573 2.98/-0.02573 + 47.045 = 50 So the corresponding formula should be: (Input / -0.02573) + 47.045 = Output.   If someone can confirm my math it'd be great. Supposedly you can pick any two pairs of the data to make this formula.
    • Well this shows me the fuel pump relay is inside the base of the drivers A Pillar, and goes into the main power wire, and it connects to the ignition. The alarm is.... in the base of the drivers A Pillar. The issue is that I'm not getting 12v to the pump at ignition which tells me that relay isn't being triggered. AVS told me the immobiliser should be open until the ignition is active. So once ignition is active, the immobiliser relay should be telling that fuel pump relay to close which completes the circuit. But I'm not getting voltage at the relay in the rear triggered by the ECU, which leaves me back at the same assumption that that relay was never connected into the immobiliser. This is what I'm trying to verify, that my assumption is the most likely scenario and I'll go back to the alarm tech yet again that he needs to fix his work.      Here is the alarms wiring diagram, so my assumption is IM3A, IM3B, or both, aren't connected or improper. But this is all sealed up, with black wiring, and loomed  
    • Ceste, jak se mas Marek...sorry I only have english keyboard. Are you a fan of Poland's greatest band ever?   
×
×
  • Create New...