Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Camshaft time for my late 96 R33 GTS25T so I need to explore options .

I suppose for simplicities sake most would just grab a pair of Tomei pon Cams because they drop in and work .

Now because I read posts about people using Tighe cam profiles I spent a bit of time and bashed out a few E mails to see just what they have . I got one reply from them saying that they are able to use Ford Sierra profiles on RB hydraulic type camshafts - lobes must be similar between YBB/BDA and RB hydraulic camshafts .

So from their site the first 3 Sierra profiles (708C/805C/845C) are like this .

708C 13 59-62 10 , 252/252 , 215 at 50 , 0.345" (8.763) lift .

805C 14 60-63 11 , 254/254 , 220 at 50 , 0.355" (9.017) lift .

845C 14 60-63 11 , 254/254 , 224 at 50 , 0.402" (10.21) lift .

From what I hear std camshafts (RB25 or RB26) need to be built up so that the lobes base circles say approximately the same to not screw up hydraulic buckets oil feed supply . STD RB26 cams must have greater lift so less to build up .

For road I like the idea of shortish duration and as much lift as mechanically possible because I think thats the way to make torque without turning high engine revs . The shortish duration is supposed to keep up the cylinders trapping efficiency up and any extra lift gets the largest flow restriction (valve heads) further out of the ports .

Extra lift while being good has limitations like the valves need to have a minimum distance clear of the piston crowns in the overlap phase (all valves open and piston moving over top dead center) . Also the buckets need to follow the lobes meaning the springs have to be up to the task . As the fella doing my head said "If the springs dom't close the valves the pistons sure will" ... Bent valves don't seal so big compression loss and exy repairs .

The 64 dollar question is do you stuff around with local cams or just go with the tried and apparently proven Tomei drop in ones ? At this point cost rears its ugly head and if there is a significant difference either way the cheaper one will probably get the nod .

I would really like to see what the R33 RB25 Pon Cams numbers look like but really its the result thats most important .

So unless Tighe can offer me something worthwhile at a competitive price the answer is right there .

Garys laughing at me again I can feel it , A .

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230494-aftermarket-cams-for-ecr33-rb25det/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...