Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I'm sure some guys here are using one of these on their car. Anyone has the EDFC installed as well?

Are you guys having this problem below?

I have a set of GReddy Type S coil overs with the in car damper controller (I'll rip off TEIN and call it an edfc)

the coil overs work the treat they are fantastic, unfortunatly the same can't be said for the controller (edfc)

basically I've set them up correctly as far as I can tell, manually adjusted the stiffness on all 4 struts to the softest setting and installed the edfc controller and set to setting 1. Basically when you adjust it they aren't adjusting properly.

they have been securly screwed into place all 4 of them as far as they can and wired up correctly

to see if they work i adjust the system to full hard or setting 32, the motors make a pretty loud noise and finally stop at supposed level 32, but by about setting 28 they sound like they have reached the end as a sort of clicking or struggling noise happens.

I unscrewed the controller and put the manual adjuster back on to find yes it is at setting 32. Put the EDFC back on and set it back down to setting 1, the motors make their noises and finally stop this time no clicking noise. upon removing the EDFC motors once again I find that instead of going back to 1 they actually stopped at seems more like setting 14 or 15.

Now this has happened over and over again. I've tried callobrating from hardest to softest and after adjusting to stiffest to softest and back again the motors basically come out of sinc with the actual setting of the struts.

So bad that tonight after adjusting to setting 5 at the front and 4 at the rear (which is pretty soft) they were actually set to 28 at the left front and 31 on the right. I dont know what it is like on the rear i haven't taken the parcel shelf off since installing them.

NOW to get a few pointers right, I have done nothing to the system or coil overs in any way simply bolteded everything on. I can't read the instructions incase i am missing something as they are in Japanese. Am I supposed to put a little oil down into the damping of the strut?

NOW again to f**k with everyone after playing around with them for hours, taking them on and off adjusting manually and automaticlly to see if they were staying in sinc (which they appeared they aren't) ONE of the struts magically have started to work in total sinc AND dont make the knocking or clicking noise once they reach end.

I initially thought maybe there was something wrong with motors or EDFC conroller until i swapped the motors at the front over so what was on the left strut is now on the right and vice versa. To only find that the same strut or same side continued to work perfectly. So it can't be the unit. All struts feel the same when adjusting manually and all motors are screwed down as far as they can go but the problem still persists.

Also the working strut doesn't make as loud a noise when the motors are adjusting in fact it is almost silent.

What I am after is anyone who has the EDFC for either their GReddy coil overs or TEIN (as the GReddy EDFC looks exactly like the TEIN ones) and if you have had this problem or if I have missed something when installing them.

I have spent ages trying to figure this out. It doesn't make any sence why the motors and EDFC aren't staying in sinc with the Strut and why 3 out of the 4 motors sound different when adjusting when they are ALL screwed down as tight or deep as they can be as they can be.

Before you suggest I have also tried callobrating the fronts at a middle setting like 15 setting both the EDFC and struts at 15 then adjusting. EVERY time i go stiff to setting 28 sometimes 27 or higher the motors sound like they have reached the end clicking and making a knocking noise.

Does anyone have experience installing EDFCs and have i missed something?

I've installed the struts with the provided spacing bracked that somes with the EDFC as well as with the new longer screws for the front struts as well

Quoted from here

Just paid for a set of these with EDFC, was hoping someone has experienced this and found a solution

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/230678-greddy-type-s/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's restrictor pills in the stock boost control hoses. That's how they set the amount that was bled off and hence the "high" boost setting. The usual mod in the day was to remove it and send the "high" boost setting up to about 14 psi.
    • Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
×
×
  • Create New...