Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just wondering if this would work, My freinds R33 RB25DET's Turbo To AFM pipe has been damaged, Now the case is that im going to take my original one off so he can copy it but there are 2 holes as the pictures above you can see the 2 holes, Now i wana know if we need to make these 2 holes as well? because its on a metal pipe its a bit difficult to make those 2 holes... can we just block them? Thanks guys,

Geraus,

stockturbopipecopyvh6.th.jpg

Hey guys just wondering if this would work, My freinds R33 RB25DET's Turbo To AFM pipe has been damaged, Now the case is that im going to take my original one off so he can copy it but there are 2 holes as the pictures above you can see the 2 holes, Now i wana know if we need to make these 2 holes as well? because its on a metal pipe its a bit difficult to make those 2 holes... can we just block them? Thanks guys,

Geraus,

stockturbopipecopyvh6.th.jpg

those silicone ones on ebay look decent and cheap idk how they hold up though

found a link to something

http://firesport.ipspace.com/skyline-induc...t--ad122739.htm

Edited by stricnynel0s

silicone ones are good. i have one on my car and never missed a beat. those two holes are for the bov recirc pipe and the breather pipe from the cam covers. the latter you dont really need but the stock bov wont function properly without the recirc connected to the intake (i think)

Ohh yeh thats it the recurc pipe and the BOV pipe, Thanks so much guys! we just got the pipe done this morning but it hasnt got the 2 holes. :) , Sorry wots "latter" . The pipe is the same shape as the OEM one. So there is no way we could use the the pipe without the 2 holes?

I got a silicon one from ebay for about $85 delivered, they work well and look very neat but fitment wasn't 100% on my R32

You will have to cut it down if your using standard air box and if your using a pod, depending on size you might need to change the way it sits a little

I've got a stock RB25 intake pipe which has been cut down a few cm's as I was using it on my R32, you can have it for $20 if you want

Located in Hallam

edit:

Tap a nipple into the intake pipe and run that to the rocker cover and for the bov recirc, if you really can't be bothered plumbing it back you might as well pull the vac line out and block that, block the bov port to cross pipe and block the bov outlet

Hey i think i spoke to u on NS. but anyway yeh i already got the pipe done, im just worried about the 2 holes, yeh the car runs, im using a blitz pod filter. Thanks so much guys.

Geraus.

I used an Ebay pipe on my R34 GTT - good and cheap, but had to trim it slightly which was no drama. I blocked off the cam breather port as I am using a oil catch can. I tried playing with not connecting the bov return and the car wouldn't idle. Hope this helps you mate.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I’ve made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don’t stuff it up 😂
    • This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
    • So I ran into the same problem. I got stuck in the cycle of again of putting putty sanding it, putting putty sanding it, because of a low spot. And notice my block is not completely flat with the panel, even though it's a long block. My panel is slightly curved. Is this an issue? Do I need something that matches the door perfectly, or no?    I do have the smaller flexible block that covers the width of the repair just not the length, I was experimenting with it again to but seems to be the same issue
×
×
  • Create New...