Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all

I am going to replace the intake piping on my 33 GTR at the same time the turbos etc are all upgraded for a HKS hard piping kit. The issue is there seems to be two possible options and I am not sure which ones I should get and why there is such a big price difference.

The two options are:

1 is the HKS suction kit 70018-AN004, http://www.nengun.com/hks/premium-suction

the other is the HKS racing chamber kit 70008-AN012 http://www.nengun.com/hks/racing-chamber-kit

both being for the RB26 (R33).

Bearing in mind I already have M's pods and I am going D'Jetro, I am not sure which kit is the one I should be getting, it seems to me that the only difference between these two kits is the racing chamber kit does away with the need to fabricate afm delete pipes as it bolts up to the filters however given the cost for me to have two afm delete pipes fabricated is only $70 odd dollars it seems that I may as well get the premium suction kit and save myself $300.

Am I missing something?

Edited by R34kid
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/231805-hks-intake-kit-help/
Share on other sites

The Racing Chamber Kit does not have anything to do with pipework to the turbo's. It's only the pipe across the engine and Y-Pipe to intercooler pipework before the inner guard.

You need a racing suction kit 70020-AN008 plus the airflow-less adapters.

Cheers

Marty

No i do not think that is correct the racing suction reload kit is what part number you have given and that is just the pods and a small metal pipe attachment?

I already have M's pods so I think I actually need both the premium suction kit and the racing chamber kit DOH because the tuner is now saying that the y-pipe that comes with the racing chamber kit dramatically reduces air turbulence

Edited by R34kid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...