Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I'm just wondering what problems there may/would be installing an R32 turbo on an R33. I know lots of people put R33 turbo's on R32's and have read something about a restrictor in the oil feed line of R32's so that there is a different oil pressure due to different bearings being used between the turbo's. Can anyone confirm this? Just wondering if anything special needs to be done swapping them the other way around.

Ur prob thinking why would I wanna put an R32 turbo on an R33? Well the turbo on my R33 blew and the only 2nd hand turbo I can find for it is expensive, so for that price I would rather just buy an aftermarket one. Only problem is the person that looked at my car also believes that the engine is damaged, so I don't want to buy an aftermarket one for which I will need to get car tuned on dyno if I'm not certain the engine is ok. But, I want to put a turbo back on the car to confirm whether or not there is a problem with the engine once the turbo issue is resolved.

So, I was thinking maybe an r32 turbo might be a cheap temporary option for me to check how the engine goes with the turbo issue resolved. From what I've read it seems an R32 and R33 turbo is a direct bolt-on swap, is this the case?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232122-r32-turbo-on-r33/
Share on other sites

R33 turbos aren't expensive, certainly not anywhere near the realm of an aftermarket turbo. And even after you find a problem (if there is one) with the engine, you are still going to have to remove the R32 turbo and replace it with something larger.

If anything, the R32 turbo could damage your engine as being undersized it will be running alot less efficiently which equals higher inlet temperatures. Also, since the turbo will be running higher speeds to keep up with the 25 you risk having the turbine on the RB20 turbo failing.

RB25 turbo with manifold, dump and lines went for $150 on SD.com forums today. Saw one going on this forum last week for $200. Found one (again this forum) rebuilt for $500.

If you are getting aftermarket turbos for this price then they must be cheap copies

Edited by daisu

Rb25 turbos come up for sale almost weekly - and priced @ $400

Not expensive at all when aftermarkets are $1700+

not sure what price you'v been given for an RB25 turbo, but $400 is the limit.

The RB20 turbo is too small, and could cause issues with the tune/ECU and so on being it'll be on boost earlier than normal

I actually live in NZ. The only R33 turbo I've been able to find so far is $700 from a 2nd hand parts place which is ridiculous, but there's lots of R32 ones around.

Guess I will just leave it until I can find a cheaper one since I still have my R32 to drive around in. Hopefully I can find one soon.

Cheers for comments

sorta on topic but does anyone know if rb20/25 exh manifolds are different at all?

reason i ask is the to4e turbo i have is supposed to bolt up to my stock mani & if the rb25 is different in any way it might be good to know.

thanks

I actually live in NZ. The only R33 turbo I've been able to find so far is $700 from a 2nd hand parts place which is ridiculous, but there's lots of R32 ones around.

Guess I will just leave it until I can find a cheaper one since I still have my R32 to drive around in. Hopefully I can find one soon.

Cheers for comments

So just purchase one off the forums here? Living in NZ shouldnt pose one problem.

Have the seller ship it over.

Wouldnt be more than $50 postage at the worst.

Thats what, $250 cheaper to begin with.

Answering the question, yes you can and yes it will work, it will spool early and run out of puff quickly. If you put the stock r33 actuator on it (so its only running 5-7psi) it should cope ok, They don't like pushing more than ~ 150rwkw worth of air, so run the lowest boost you can, and it will get you by (i wouldn't go bouncing off the limiter though)

That said, your better option would be to get another rb25 turbo, a vg30 turbo or similar T3 (an old vl turbo even), you can get them in aus for around $300

Rather than start a new thread................ might as well hijack :dry:

Just wondering if the r33s1 and the r34gt dump pipes are the same??

I know that the r33s1 and r33s2 turbo's have slight differences but that has nothing to do with the dump.

Hopeing 34's will be the same????

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...