Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Model: R32 4dr

Milage: 103,000km

Transmission: 5 speed man

Colour: blue

Location: Adelaide

Complied? yes

RWC supplied? no

Currently registered? yes 2 mths left

Price: 17k with 17's or 19k with 18x11's

Contact: pm me or 0434223083

Comments / Modifications: this car is a massive head turner.

Currently showing at Autosalon Adelaide

-Dynoed boostworx 240 rwkw on 15psi with heaps more potential.

-Rb25 motor and gearbox.

-Fresh respray courtesy of Spikes Auto

-cushion button ceramic clutch. 3000km old

-Fmic

-Has 103,000 on chassis

-Aftermarket fuel pump.

-Remapped r32 ecu for rb25.

-Rev limiter reset, no boost cut and no top speed cut

-To4e top mount turbo with custom install

-Turbo beanie.

-Turbosmart pro gate 38 external wastegate

-Full exhaust with custom dump

-Ebc with high low boost. low is 10psi high is 15psi.

-Tein ha coilovers.

-Cusco 35mm sway bars.

-Nismo 260kph dash cluster

-Flared rear guards to fit 18x11's

-Upgraded 32 interior with no rips or tears.

-Genuine gtr front bar

-Panasonic head unit

-2x jbl amps

-Jbl splits

-2x jbl subs in custom box

-Jbl rear 2way speakers

-Momo steering wheel

-17 inch 3 pce work equip wheels

1 owner in australia.

Have compliance and regency papers

sorry about quality of pic but will replace with better ones from autosalon soon

wheels in pic do not come with sale of the car unless extra price added

looking for 17k ono or 19k with the 18x11s

only selling due to buying a house and need to clear debt and pay off loan.

having massive problems getting pics to upload for some reason so here is a link to view them.

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=325747

definatly well worth the look.

the car looks so much better in person than in the pics.

Edited by sneaky1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/232254-r32-4dr-rb25det-motor-and-box/
Share on other sites

forgot to add has pager alarm with turbo timer function and remote start stop.

SAU still wont let me upload pics. getting rather pissed off.

bout time they sorted this out.

  • 3 months later...

diff is now shimmed firm but not so it skips. lock bar and rack spacers added. made a hell of a difference to the car and all for the better.

still looking at selling. not overly fussed atm cause i luv driving it but throw me some offers pplz

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

boost t removed but still runnin 12psi.

thats the only thing that dear officer neil didnt like about my car.

he is renoun for defecting ppl but didnt defect me.

remap soon as it runnin abit rich

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...