Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

goood thanks mate, my entire exhaust including the headers is too rusty to bother keeping, carb? mines an 81 with an l24e no carb maby ur thinking the other mark, any ideas i can get or information on these cars would b greatly apreciated

i was referring to vltwags, sorry :-)

the l24 and l24e use the same p30 head. the only thing i can suggest has been suggested. buy a new set of headers or get some from ebay. i love the sound of a brand new set of headers

vltwags, you can pop over again if you want and i can teach you. remember, when you change the dwell (points gap), you have to readjust the ignition timing

Edited by NightMonkeyII
i was referring to vltwags, sorry :-)

the l24 and l24e use the same p30 head. the only thing i can suggest has been suggested. buy a new set of headers or get some from ebay. i love the sound of a brand new set of headers

vltwags, you can pop over again if you want and i can teach you. remember, when you change the dwell (points gap), you have to readjust the ignition timing

cheers once iv done my headers and exhaust im thinking of converting to electronic ignition after reading more of this thread

also, do a search man. there is so much kick-ass info in this forum about these cars already. i remember the first time i found SAU, i stayed up literally for hours reading old thread posts.

i was referring to vltwags, sorry :-)

the l24 and l24e use the same p30 head. the only thing i can suggest has been suggested. buy a new set of headers or get some from ebay. i love the sound of a brand new set of headers

vltwags, you can pop over again if you want and i can teach you. remember, when you change the dwell (points gap), you have to readjust the ignition timing

Yeah yeah I know man, check the first post this is an OLD thread from before I got extractors.

cheers once iv done my headers and exhaust im thinking of converting to electronic ignition after reading more of this thread

whats a decent grade engine oil for these cars im doin an oil and filter change this weeek mine has 168 000 km

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
×
×
  • Create New...