Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Steve

Emissions test are a bloody joke anyway.  If a car is not passing an emissions test, one of the ways to fix the problem is to inject air into the cat - holden have been doing it for years, pretty sure nissan did it too on SR20s.

Are you sure it's air and not methane gas from the driver's seat :)

Found out some interesting news about emissions testing. Aparrently this place that does the $350 test isnt being accepted by regency, but they are still trying to fight that one.

BUT, they will accept emissions tests done by NSW govt, or at mitsubishi. Who cares? I have been told that it is free in NSW vs $3k at mitsubishi, just got to book your car in???? Would be interesting to see how hard it would be to get in, cos if it costs $3k here, NSW suddenly looks like a fantastic place to take a holiday.

Will have to investigate further....

There is a guy in adelaide who can do an emissions test on a dyno, but the accuracy is not high enough for the RTA. To get the accuracy they require involves mitsubishi and $3k.

I was also told that the NSW govt provides free emissions testing, that is accepted in SA. Wonder how hard it would be to get that done? Even if you have to grease the wheels a bit, it would be alot cheaper than going to mitsubishi.

Found out some info on emissions testing

http://www.rta.nsw.gov.au/environment/airq...lemissions.html

There is a free call number to book the vehicle in, and it meets australian standards, free test and takes up to 1/2 hour.

I checked with the guys from regency, and they will pass a car with a larger EDIT turbo if it has an emissions report - probably why you are in your situation 9krpm?

I think I will have to check to see if they accept NSW engineering reports too:)

do you need an engineers report for the mods + an emission test? or just the emission test?

can you recommend an engineer? A friend of mine recommended 'BC Tonkin & Associates'... apparently they are on the Transport SA list of recommended engineers. D. Potts (australian Technology PTY LTD) is on the list as well... is he dodgy or is it just the emission test he does is that is unacceptible?

I've been told all I need is an emission test.

Then I was told to get an engineering report after the emsission test and bring the car for Regency to check. This is like another $70 down the drain after

-?$3K for emssion check

-??$$$ for engineering report

Why does Regency need an engineering report? Couldn't they check/assess the safety them self? If they can't then why do they need to check the car after an expert made a report/safety check aldready?

Toooooooo many loop hole for the government to make money!!!!! STOP IT I DON'T LIKE IT :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
×
×
  • Create New...