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Caterpillar separate keygens available!(SIS,STW,ET)(for multiple version)

Caterpillar ET multi-version keygen available!(factory and customer level)

Caterpillar ET FACTORY PASSWORDS CHANGE keygen! Newest and extremely rare! Only factory has this keygen! Get it here,and you`ll never again need to go to dealer! :laugh:

Peugeot Backup Box 2/2008 + multi-version keygen available!

MAN Wis + multi-version keygen available!

Actia MultiDiag + multi-version keygen

Alison Transmissions + multi-version 3-level keygen(Activation,Reprogramming,TAC Data)

DDDL7.x + keygen (Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link)

DDDL4.x + keygen (Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link)

Ford eCAT + multi-version keygen

Volvo VCads Pro+crack

Citroen backup Box + multi-version keygen

EsiTronic 2008/2 DVD + keygen + patch

Delphi Direct Evolution 4/2008 crack

Cummins Insite v7 keygen!

DDRS 7.x Crack available!

Vivid Workshop Data ATI 8.1 + crack!

EsiTronic 3/2008 Keygen!

Saab WIS 2007

Saab EPC 1/2008

Scania 5/2008

ETKA VAG 7.1 12/2007

ManTIS 3/2008

ManWIS 7/2007

Mann Filter 6/2008

Man CATS2 2008 (diagnostic program for MAN Trucks)(no keygen yet)

Land Rover MicroCat 7/2008

MG Rover MicroCat 2/2008

BMW ETK 5/2008

BMW WDS 12

BMW Mini WDS v7.0 2007

BMW TIS 3/2008 - german or BMW TIS 12/2007 - english

BMW DIS v53 + base v52 + install CD GT1

ZF Parts 1/2008 (Zf InCat)

Bosch Tools Catalogue 2007/1

Zexel Q4 2007 (Zx,Zw,Zd)

ElsaWin update 3.52

Skoda DVD 1/2008 for ElsaWin 3.5

Audi DVD DL for ElsaWin 3.5 - 2/2008

Seat DVD for ElsaWin 3.5 - 2/2008

ElsaWin 3.5 - Vw data update 1/2008

Opel EPC 6/2008

Opel TIS 4/2008 (german)

Porsche Pet 10/2007 - update 223

Honda USA 2/2008

Honda EPC 14.00 (4/2008)

Honda Moto 4/2007

SsangYong EPC 2/2008

TecDoc Q3 2008

Mazda LHD 10/2007

Mazda EPC 1/2008

Suzuki WorldWide 2/2008

Hyundai MicroCat 4/2008

Daihatsu Microcat 2/2008

Mitchell On Demand Q1 2008 Full

Mitchell CRS 10/2007

Mitchell Repairmate 6/2007

Mitchell UltraMate 2/2008

Nissan LHD All 7/2007

Subaru USA 7/2007

Subaru Euro 5/2008

Alldata 9.7 full + crack

Iveco Power Q1 2008

Atris Stahlgruber Q3 2008

Autodata 3.18+crack

Autodata 2.18+crack

GFS 12 - full - english

GFS 12 - Vw,Seat,Skoda - english

Caterpillar SIS 2007B (2/2008)

Caterpillar STW 2007B (2/2008)

Caterpillar ET 2008A (4/2008)

Caterpillar 2/2008 - Flash files

Nissan All 3/2008

Nissan Japan 5/2008

Ford MicroCat 7/2008

Renault Dialogys 2/2008

Renault Lorry 6/2008

Chrysler USA 4/2008

Toyota, Lexus ALL, 2007/07

Volvo Impact 11/2007

Volvo Prosis 6/2006

Volvo PTT DVD 6/2008

Volvo VCads Pro +keygen

Volvo Vida 2008A

Volvo Inteligent Diagnostic 6/2006

Volvo WDS 3/2008

Mitsubishi ALL, 2007/06

Tolerance Data 2007/1+crack

Kia MicroCat 7/2008

Fiat ePER 5/2008 - v41

MB StarFinder v2 - 6/2008

MB WISnet 6/2008

MB EPCnet 6/2008

MB DAS 6/2008

KTS 500 Final Version DVD

Isuzu WorldWide 2007/6

GM MicroCat 2/2008

GM TIS 2/2008

Peugeot EPC 2007/1

Chevrolet EPC 2/2008

Chrysler International PAIS III 3/2008

ATSG 2006

Ford USA EPC ProQuest 4/2008

Chevrolet-Daewoo TIS 2/2007

Chevrolet TIS 1/2008

Lexia3 v42(+ keygen)

Proxia v41

Jaguar&LandRover IDS DVD 114 v6/2008(open version)

Peugeot Planet System v18.14(+keygen)

Peugeot Wiring Diagram 3/2008

Renault Clip v83+crack

Renault Reprogramming Disc v64

Honda HDS 2.006.019.eng(open version)

Actia - Multi-Di@g II 2008

Ford VCM DVD 5/2008 - version 55 - Ford Addition

Mazda VCM DVD 1/2008 - version 53 - mazda Addition

Toyota MicroCat Live 1/2008

Esi GM 2006/11

Honda EPC ProQuest 2/2008

Mitshubishi CAPS Euro 7/2007

Mitshubishi CAPS USA 7/2007

GM USA EPC4 2007/10

EsiTronic Q2 2008 DVD 1 + keygen

EsiTronic Q1 2008 DVD 2

Toyota EPC 10/2007

MMC ALL Markets 10/2007

Vivid Workshop Data ATI 8.1 + crack

AutoTech Encyclopedia 2007

CEI 2007

JCB Druid 2/2006

Toyota TIS

Toyota EPC Euro 2/2008

Komatsu EPC 1/2004

Cummins EPC 2/2006 : Heavy Duty

Cummins EPC 2/2006 : High HorsePower

Cummins EPC 2/2006 : Mid-Range

Cummins InPower v5.5

Cummins InSite v7.1 6/2008

Cummins Intercept 6/2007

Citroen Laser 12/2006

Cummins InCal 6/08

Citroen Service Documentation 12/2007

Peugeot Service Documentation 3/2008

BMW Gt1 DIS v51

ETOS 6/2008

FRAM Filters 1/2008

BMW ETM 2002

Komatsu Construction EPC 8/2007

New Holland 7/2007

DAF Parts Rapido 4/2008

DAF Leyland

Ford eCAT 6/2008

Mitshubishi Trucks 10/2007

Jaguar EPC 2/2008

Jaguar JTIS 2004

Jaguar TIS 2003

Alison Transmissions 4/2008

Deutz 2008

Detroit Diesel Reprogramming Station 7.0 (no keygen yet)

Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 7.03 (DDDL) 5/2008

Detroit Diesel Diagnostic Link 6.4 (DDDL)

Delphi Direct Evolution 4/2008

ZF Man Repair

Toyota Industrial EPC v1.45

SAF EPC 10/2006

Perkins EPC/Manuals 2004

Liebherr 10/2006

Nipparts 2/2007

Mahle 2/2007

Haendler DVD 1/2008

Mercury EPC 2007

International Master Diagnostic (International MD) (program)

Bosal v18 2008

Very Soon:

Mazda EPC Euro 4/2008

Liebherr Lidos 10/2007

JCB Compact Service Manuals 11/2007

MB DAS 7/2008

MB EPCnet 7/2008

BMW ETK 8/2008

Fiat ePER 42

Cummins CEPC 2008

GM MicroCat 6/2008

Autodata 3.23

come and see:

==>> http://www.youtube.com/user/SultanYu <<==

or contact by email:

==>> [email protected] <<==

Contact for full list of softwares!

Skype name: yusultan

MSN: [email protected]

ICQ: 393439259

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/233886-diagnostic-software-and-eqiupment/
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hold up.. I thought this stuff is to break into cars or sumthing? why is this moron trying to sell keygens and rubish?

Because He Is A Tool :banana::bunny:

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  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
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