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Hi guys im new to this forum and ive been reading alot of the post's here and its so informative,

want to say that you guys are doin a great job!!!

Guy's i need your help!! It's a long story and ill cut it short as possible, it all began with a constant turbo trumpet noise everytime i came on boost like boost trying to escape. From reading through and analysing diagrams in the GTR manual inspection book i found out that the whole circulation piping for stock bov's to the air filter pipes were blocked taken off which blocked off the air pipe the goes between both turbo's, which was causing 1 turbo to overboost the other. So 1 problem solved (THANKS TO YOU GUYS!) :D once that PLUS other problems (long story) were all solved i changed the crank angle sensor from a previous 32 i owned (cause it was polished) and timed it to make sure it was perfect. Next i started to play with my already installed blitz dual sbc spec III id my settings were SET 50 and GAIN 10 which was givin me bout 14.7 psi and the car was absolutely running great and very fast too fast, my previous 32 had pretty much same mods but a more basic boost controller and it never went this quick or responsive! could a boost controller with an option of boost response make this much of a difference? Anyways 3 days later whilst driving decided to give her a squirt in a quiet industrial road on the way home revved her up too 5000 rpm and dropped the clutch the car instantly stepped slightly to the side from the grab of the excedy twin plate then caught traction, changed gears and half way through 2nd i lost power, no noise of popping or breaking just no noise of turbo spooling! Looked at my Blitz display and no matter how hard i booted the accelerator it would not go more than 0.4 psi, did i just blow 1 or both turbo's? car still runs fine just not boosting no smoke out of exhaust either!! But there is a leak sound similar to wat you would hear when you get a gasket leak from around the turbo side dump pipes when i rev motor. Was thinking it was maybe an actuator flap stuck open so it wouldnt hold boost. I took off the actuator rods to test the gateway flap on both, im not a mechanic but they seemed fine beside a bit of rust. Would a gasket leak from the turbo/manifold side cause me not to boost? it doesnt sound like a big leak! Or have i blown them!! cause of limited room in engine bay i cant take the extended mouth piece's bolted by alan key bolts on front housing and can just barely got a finger to the front turbo to check if it had any play in it or if it seized but it was fine!!! cant get too back one cause mouth was too long. Now im stuck!! Is there another way for me to check back turbo?

Has anyone come up with the same probZ that can shed light to this problem? Or give me some mechanical advise for me to try?? It would be much appreciate it!!!

Cheers,

John.

P.S sorry bout long cry for help, thought id better explain as much as possible for everyone to understand problem.

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checked wat i could with hoses but no luck im gonna try and disconnect all ic pipes and look for split hose though, hope tjhis works. Also when sitting in nuetral and i rev da motor hard i hear like a metal sound spinning.

Hi guys im new to this forum and ive been reading alot of the post's here and its so informative,

want to say that you guys are doin a great job!!!

Guy's i need your help!! It's a long story and ill cut it short as possible, it all began with a constant turbo trumpet noise everytime i came on boost like boost trying to escape. From reading through and analysing diagrams in the GTR manual inspection book i found out that the whole circulation piping for stock bov's to the air filter pipes were blocked taken off which blocked off the air pipe the goes between both turbo's, which was causing 1 turbo to overboost the other. So 1 problem solved (THANKS TO YOU GUYS!) :P once that PLUS other problems (long story) were all solved i changed the crank angle sensor from a previous 32 i owned (cause it was polished) and timed it to make sure it was perfect. Next i started to play with my already installed blitz dual sbc spec III id my settings were SET 50 and GAIN 10 which was givin me bout 14.7 psi and the car was absolutely running great and very fast too fast, my previous 32 had pretty much same mods but a more basic boost controller and it never went this quick or responsive! could a boost controller with an option of boost response make this much of a difference? Anyways 3 days later whilst driving decided to give her a squirt in a quiet industrial road on the way home revved her up too 5000 rpm and dropped the clutch the car instantly stepped slightly to the side from the grab of the excedy twin plate then caught traction, changed gears and half way through 2nd i lost power, no noise of popping or breaking just no noise of turbo spooling! Looked at my Blitz display and no matter how hard i booted the accelerator it would not go more than 0.4 psi, did i just blow 1 or both turbo's? car still runs fine just not boosting no smoke out of exhaust either!! But there is a leak sound similar to wat you would hear when you get a gasket leak from around the turbo side dump pipes when i rev motor. Was thinking it was maybe an actuator flap stuck open so it wouldnt hold boost. I took off the actuator rods to test the gateway flap on both, im not a mechanic but they seemed fine beside a bit of rust. Would a gasket leak from the turbo/manifold side cause me not to boost? it doesnt sound like a big leak! Or have i blown them!! cause of limited room in engine bay i cant take the extended mouth piece's bolted by alan key bolts on front housing and can just barely got a finger to the front turbo to check if it had any play in it or if it seized but it was fine!!! cant get too back one cause mouth was too long. Now im stuck!! Is there another way for me to check back turbo?

Has anyone come up with the same probZ that can shed light to this problem? Or give me some mechanical advise for me to try?? It would be much appreciate it!!!

Cheers,

John.

P.S sorry bout long cry for help, thought id better explain as much as possible for everyone to understand problem.

Im inclined to think youve done a turbo wheel in too. If it still idles and drives ok but doesnt make boost it wont be an intercooler pipe.

Your last post reads like an instruction manual on how to kill ceramic wheel turbo's. 1 bar is the max boost most people that live dangerously dare to run. If your running that and driving like you do, a small boost spike of 1/2 a PSI will put you into the death zone...

Ive had the exact same symptoms twice... both times the rear turbo let go

quickest way is get under the car, hit the cat converter with your hand, and see if it rattles.

If one turbo is gone, the engine wont boost. Get a set of GT-SS turbos if you like the standard response but want more power. Dont replace with one standard turbo like I did... its cheaper short term, but Im just coming out of a $10G plus repair on my engine

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