Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Even cheaper now for a quick sale, looks like I stand to make more tax time dollars next year if I lose a bit on the car sale so $17k it is , minus the NOS kit ( I'll sell it sepparately since no one seems to want a gtst with NOS --- what a sad state I live in :cool:)

1995 '12 second' R33 GTST 'sleeper' with NOS (Perth W.A)

Well it's that time of the year..

Time to sell the car and get a new one, for tax reasons as it is a work vehicle.

Totally stock looking manual 'silver' gtst with factory rims. A blank canvas to customise or leave as is to avoid unwanted attention.

CONDITION:

102,000kms regular servicing including transmission and diff.

Presently the car has a crease in the rear bumper and a few minor scratches, which will cost about $500-600 to clean up properly and the price reflects this. Interior is good. and it has a factory 7disc CD stacker/tuner and drivers airbag.

MODS.

* K&N Airfilter and modified airbox

* HKS exhaust cam gear

* Ogura Racing Chrome Molly flywheel

* 9 puck ceramic compound clutch

* FGK Super Ti cat back exhaust (very quiet and flows well)

* Custom Stainless steel turbo dump pipe and front pipe, with thermal wrapping.

* Apexi Super AFC II and sought after 95' ecu

* Peltier cooler on standard intercooler.

* Whiteline KCA349 diff cradle kit.

* Bosch Motorsport in tank fuel pump

* NOS EFI Nitrous kit (hidden underbonet) with 10lb bottle and 50hp jet. New nitrous solenoid.

The last outing saw the car run 13.3 and has since had a major tuning issue resolved which will has it making easy 12 second power. With larger decent rear tyres fitted 12's will not be a problem without NOS. The NOS activation offers the potential for low 12's and with the simple fittment of the 100hp jet an 11second pass.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/23479-17000-for-r33-12second-sleeper-perth/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've seen similar actually in my situation. You never know what tables are attempted to be used when the car thinks it's -99C or +200C. The fail state is not usually that extreme but you know what I mean - it was in my case though! This is where being able to read all the sensors is useful cause you see this stuff really quickly.
    • The above is very important. However as long as you keep timing relatively low, it's plausible to make your own knock ears and plausible to learn to tune with a modern ECU that can do wideband O2 correction like a boost controller. I mean if you only have one viable road to even drive the car on, learning to tinker to this level may be worth doing given you can't do much else with the car...?
    • I find the fact that the rear plate has to be bent inwards at the rear not so bad: but the front is just awful: It's like come on. (these are my very old, now retired/turned in plates) TBH it is a lot of money to fix a minor issue, the fact I said "I'll never really spend the money on doing this" is why people ended up buying them as a gift for a 'car guy' who can be hard to shop for.. for car guy things.
    • I just bent the ends of my premo plates. It even went through Regency like that after the engine conversion and the inspector (a great bloke!) just squinted his eyes and said "I didn't see that". Plates, and how they look, are just something that have zero importance to me.
    • Yeah, I would have said the same. It makes me suggest that there are other things wrong, such that the ECU is totally unhappy with the broken sensor. The only other thought here is that maybe it is shorted, which might cause a different issue to the typical "disconnected" sensor.
×
×
  • Create New...