Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys..

the idle on my r33 has been a bit bad today.. going up and down btwn 500-700rpm

it has almost been wanting to stall!! it stalled once actually but i dont know if that was the engine or driver error.. (i was in 2nd and may have been going a lil too slow)

i have only recently purchased it so i dont know if it needs a tune to fix it or if it might be somehing more serious!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/234904-bad-idle-on-r33gtst/
Share on other sites

also change oil, change spark plugs, clean AFM..... also 500 is alittle low for idle... should be 650-750ish..... i had that problem when revs were at 2k and then droped it to neutral, sometimes it would stall....... i did what i said and cleaned aac valve and stopped stallinng prob.... although i can see my car idle still plays around a little... but doesnt stall anymore

  • 2 weeks later...
also change oil, change spark plugs, clean AFM..... also 500 is alittle low for idle... should be 650-750ish..... i had that problem when revs were at 2k and then droped it to neutral, sometimes it would stall....... i did what i said and cleaned aac valve and stopped stallinng prob.... although i can see my car idle still plays around a little... but doesnt stall anymore

well as i said above, i still had some idle play after doing this, but changed my 02 sensor and idle is dead constant now, no play at all, and better fuel economy.....

hope this helps

well as i said above, i still had some idle play after doing this, but changed my 02 sensor and idle is dead constant now, no play at all, and better fuel economy.....

hope this helps

I recently purchased my o2 sensor.. but im having a bit of trouble getting the old one off..

Did u guys take out the heat shield etc to get to it? Or have u guys got some kind of trick to get to it?

seanisonfire: like axe s & Kujotk said these things may fix it and even if it doesnt, it sure wont hurt

br3ndan:

1. remove the engine heat shield

2. remove the three bolts holding the brace, then remove it

3. undo the screws holding on the heat cover over the dump pipe and remove it

4. replace the o2 sensor either with a 22mm open ended spanner or you can get a oxygen sensor socket from Repco (when i asked they said they would have to order it from over east so I just used the open ender)

5.then reverse steps 3-1

i didnt bother unbolting the old one because it looked like a bitch to undo and id probably thread it anyway..... i just cut the wires and took off the hole dump/front pipe and replaced it with a 3inch version and a highflow cat....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
    • Nice car! I’m glad folks in the US have gotten past the FnF and are buying real cool cars like the 260RS I was with a bunch of mates in Portland about a year ago and spotted a green Stagea (just a regular 2.5T AWD) parked about 2 blocks away and they were like “a what?” So I made a bet with them for a round of beers and said “ok one of you run down there and tell me if the steering wheel is on the correct side” 5 mins later the American comes trudging back up the hill and goes “he’s right guys. Ok what beer do you want?”
    • Should replace OR drop the tank, give it's good clean. Might be worth replacing that entire fuel level/pump/cradle thing with this: https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-s13-180sx-r32gtst-single-pump-hanger-kit-billet-hat-6-v3-fpg-089?gQT=2  
    • Thank you so much for the help
    • Yes it is ATF. I quote @Duncan "it takes a good synthentic auto trans fluid like Castrol Transmax Z" It's not a diff. It's a transfer case. Totally different thing. Yes, fluid will come out the sender hole. No you do not really need to drain it. Just pull the old, quickly poke the new, clean up and top up. But realistically, you should probably take the opportunity to change it anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...