Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

QUOTE(freddo @ 13 Sep 2008, 02:09 PM)

Hi guys as title states I have all NEW items to sell (need the space another project down the drain )Items only opened or taken out of boxes for photos.

N1 Block $2,000- SOLD

N1 Piston set $900

N1 Piston Ring set $180

Turbo's Garrett 2860-7 $2,000

Power FC for 32,33 gtr $750- SOLD

Tomei Dump Pipes $550- SOLD

Nismo RB26DETT GT Z Tune Spec Con-Rod set $1,200 to all the people asking yes these are FORGED

ORC Twin Plate Clutch (and Flywheel) Model 709D $1,100- SOLD

Also 6 Piston Oil Sqirters $300

As I have stated ALL these parts are new(never out of bedroom) and we all no how much these parts cost .

I'm located on NSW Central Coast Pick up welcome or I will post items at buyers cost,any questions just PM me

Cheers Justin

Reduced 96%

3264 x 2448 (1.67MB)

Reduced 96%

3264 x 2448 (1.67MB)

post-12959-1124435019.jpg

Reduced 96%

3264 x 2448 (1.68MB)

Reduced 96%

3264 x 2448 (1.67MB)

[

ttachment=179902:SDC10076.JPG]

Reduced 96%

3264 x 2448 (1.64MB)

[attachment=179904

SDC10081.JPG]

QUOTE(freddo @ 13 Sep 2008, 02:09 PM)

Hi guys as title states I have all NEW items to sell (need the space another project down the drain )Items only opened or taken out of boxes for photos.

N1 Block $2,000- SOLD :D

N1 Piston set $900

N1 Piston Ring set $180

Turbo's Garrett 2860-7 $2,000 SOLD :)

Power FC for 32,33 gtr $750- SOLD :)

Tomei Dump Pipes $550- SOLD

Nismo RB26DETT GT Z Tune Spec Con-Rod set $1,200 to all the people asking yes these are FORGED

ORC Twin Plate Clutch (and Flywheel) Model 709D $1,100- SOLD :D

Also 6 Piston Oil Sqirters $300

As I have stated ALL these parts are new(never out of bedroom) and we all no how much these parts cost .

I'm located on NSW Central Coast Pick up welcome or I will post items at buyers cost,any questions just PM me

Cheers Justin

Thanks guys the Nismo Rods N1 Pistons and rings plus the new Piston oil Squirters are the only items left

Thanks for all the interest :D

Edited by freddo
Price drop on remaining items

N1 pistons 750 delivered

N1 Rings 130 delivered

Nismo conrods 880 delivered

All new with reciepts

Cheers Guys :P

Pistons now $700 delivered

Rings now $100 delivered

Nismo Conrods $800 delivered

Need these parts gone :miner:

Thanks Guys

  • 4 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...