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Thanks for you concern 2ltrv8

But i only plan to boost it to 0.7 bar... not much at all i know. But i think that way the clutch wont die so fast on me until i can replace it with some more heavier. Then after that i will turn up the boost a bit more.

Im just very confused with the dump/front pipe.. there are so many styles to choose from i really dont know what to pick.

I guess more research for me..~

0.7 bar is enough to lunch the clutch bro, depending on your driving style.

Really man, it's a good investment, the previous two posts support the act.

As far as the dump, mine is the dump/down with divorced wastegate. As stated it produces less cavitation and interferes less with the vortex down the system. They cost a little more but I won't turn back ever, and I've recommended them to my club with the same positive results.

Ultimately the choice is yours my man, just take everything into account before making YOUR descision.

im not saying dont do the clutch im just saying its probably not even slipping yet.. and hes not even making descent power yet

10 psi isn't even that much boost

once you start going past 12 psi theres lots of parts at the end of their life and limits... fuel pump, injectors, afm.. maybe he should change all them before he gets a full 3 inch and ups the boost to 10psi :thumbsup:

I'd say go the clutch first

As Jarrod83 has said the clutch can be eaten quickly once the boost goes up. fortunately for me mine had putted around for some time before both me and him noticed it slipping.

Then one night while i was up north of the river the clutch decided to pretty much die

i got home the following morning moving at about 10kmph and the car didnt even get up the driveway

car stayed there for 1-2 weeks while i waited on a clutch 2 days after i got the clutch luckily it was a weekend both me and jarrod83 threw it on in there with the car at home on jackstands it wasnt the best way for it to go but sometimes u learn the hard way.

in other words i suggest the clutch be replaced before upping the boost or before trying to get any more power out of your car :thumbsup:

goodluck :D

i have a Greddy profec boost contoller

i wouldnt recommend it, its too hard to change boost settings on it

just jap sells a split front/dump that bolts straight up and is about $250 from memory

Profec B specII?

PROFEC B, simple to install and easy to operate. 2 settings high and low and hold boost well.

Agreed.

I vouch for Profec B as well.. I had it on my car last time and whenever it hits boost, it just holds there really well :)

Agreed.

I run a Profec B SpecII and it's mint, some people just can't get their head around how they work :woot:

I also run a 4-puck sprung brass button clutch with a heavy pressure plate, it's also mint :D less pucks = more agressive engagement :D

Maybe even get Kermit to do a custom dump pipe, or jjr split or x-force bellmouth. The results will all be much the same. Quality would be the issue you want something that will last. Any high flowing cat will do the same job, or just go de-cat.

I have heard bad things about the apexi boost controllers. Best bet is to go for a blitz DSBC. I think there around 380 new and hold boost real well.

With these mods tuned with safc your looking around the 235-250 accurate hpatw as long as your fuel pump is ok.

Oh yeah, I'm also running an XSPower (I think.. it was written on it but been a while since I last had it off) split dump into a 3" front pipe, no issues. Have heard of lost of issues with the JJR split dump/fronts though.

Hm

Ok.

So say if i did exhaust, then clutch and fuel pump.

THen finally tune with safc 2 and with boost controller (yet to be deicded)

Is it alright for my car to be running FMIC and Full 3 inch exhaust with out being tuned? for im assuming 3 - 4 weeks while i get more money together for the tune?

Edited by br3ndan
So say if i did exhaust, then clutch and fuel pump.

THen finally tune with safc 2 and with boost controller (yet to be deicded)

Is it alright for my car to be running FMIC and Full 3 inch exhaust with out being tuned? for im assuming 3 - 4 weeks while i get more money together for the tune?

Sure is. The FMIC and exhaust won't affect your vehicle without tuning at all.

Sure is. The FMIC and exhaust won't affect your vehicle without tuning at all.
Yeah absolutely fine.

Alright, looks like ill be heading down that track then.

Poor safc 2 can sit on my table for a bit more longer. haha.

Ive decided on a bellmouth one piece front/dump and a hi flow cat but unsure between cermaic or metal. I know cermaic is cheaper,, and apparently easily gets blocked? So maybe its worth the extra dollars to go the metal cat? Ill probably got Xforce on both. Sounds good?

The problem with ceramic cats is that if your car is running rich (which most of ours do, and some more than others - particularly those with base mods and no tune), the richness causes the ceramic insides to collapse. I wouldn't bother with a ceramic Xforce cat.

These are the ones im thinking about getting... Are they the correct ones?

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=275&page=1

http://justjap.com/store/product.php?produ...=252&page=5

These will bolt straight up into my hks hi power cat back right?

After i install these, my exhust system will b complete?

I wouldnt worry about the clutch, it will hold fine.

As for the boost controller, you dont need to know how to use it really because the tuner will/should give you the best result with it anyway, just say what PSI you want to run on hi and what psi on lo and you should'nt have to modify it after that. I for one have the profec 2, looks nice and works 100% fine.

I would recommend getting the fuel pump done beforehand. My car ran lean on the dyno because of a dying fuel pump so I had to buy a fuel pump off them and pay them to install it so that costed quite a bit of $.

The tune made a huge difference in power, then it got boring after 3 months :thumbsup:

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