Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was at bunnings today and noticed a random rotating orbital buffer on the specials bundle for 40 bucks. I wouldnt have thought twice cause it was bunnings except this had that random rotation thingy thats supposed to be good for buffing. Has anyone else seen it and will it do a good job at buffing the car? lol

cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240515-buffer-at-bunnings/
Share on other sites

imo you get what you pay for with buffs. i bought a cheap buff for $150 and it does alright but takes longer to buff a car than a good one. we have a rupes buff at work they are about 600ish and is very nice to use.

its kind of hard to describe but if you used my $150 buff, then tried the $600 one we use at work you would see what i mean

the pricier one its a lot smoother, better defined speed settings, plenty of low down torqiness. while my cheaper one tends to bog down at low speeds, and lacks that torque feel.

i bought a cheapy with the random rotation so kind of rotates of centre... worked well on my black car supposivly get less lines, streaks buff marks... obviously the cheaper ones dont have the power but for a light buff they do the job!

Edited by rgr34

The cheap one could be ok. I can't say I've used one but you shouldn't need too much torque as such. You aren't trying to remove the paint imperfections with pure grunt, that's what the polishing products are for. As far as I know the whole point of the random rotating head is so that it DOESN'T heat up the paint. The problem with rotary buffers (angle grinders) is that they just turn and don't oscillate. This heats up the paint quicker and is why you have to be very careful with them. The random orbitals are much safer.

Here are some examples of holograms left buy a rotary buffer. Just above the door handle you can see the circlular patterns. These are common where people don't really know what they're doing with a rotary buffer. Some waxes can hide these.

post-13456-1224228660_thumb.jpg post-13456-1224228699_thumb.jpg

When polishing you want to do it under cover so the paint work isn't hot. You generally won't see professional detailers outside, if they are then they'll try to be in the shade. As long as you use the right pad and polish choice you should be fine.

If anyone's worried about harming their cars paint because they're inexperienced then get a cheap crappy panel from a wreckers and have a go on that. You can then practice all of the claying, polishing and waxing you like. Once you're happy you could wash it with dish washing detergent and rub a kitchen scourer over it and start again.

If you do get the buffer then try and get a seperate pad for the polish and wax. There could be a microfiber bonnet for the wax already though?

Good Luck.

Edited by Fry_33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...