Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

First time i had my car on a trailer (hopefully the last). there is just somethin about it on there with the bar off that makes it look tough, like im on my way to a time attack someplace. either that or it just looks like i stuffed it and im towin it to the shop to get fixed (which was was actually true)

i towed it from geelong to cambellfield to Creatd motorsports for them to fix a nasty exhaust leak on my manifold and a turbo cooling pipe that i split whilst trying to fix the exhaust leak. good timing though got a bonus at work so im getting them to strip a muffler from my exhaust and finally get a dyno tune which i have been meaning to get since i bought the car in may.

anyone dealt with creatd motorsports on here? their new shop is unreal and it was stacked to the brim of high quality imports GTR's left right and centre evo's and all very nice. so i hope their work is as good as it looks.

let me know if ya have got work done there it would be nice to know what others thought.

cheers

Dion

post-49662-1224415195_thumb.jpg

post-49662-1224415645_thumb.jpg

Edited by DS-ZILR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/240840-towing-toughness/
Share on other sites

Nice rims. Lenso project D's or something? where di you get them from??

They are work rezax roar. purchased them of a fella who bought them for his soarer but the offset was wrong and they scrubbed so he pawned em off to me for $1000 and threw in 4 brand new brigestone potenza re30's for $400 for the lot. they came in the box that they were shipped from japan in with tags and plastic wrap all on them still. best buy i have ever made!

I think there WORK Rezax Roar or something like that

Looking good, when do you get it back?

get her back within 1 - 3 weeks i dont need it till the end of the month and told them that so could be arround then. they said they start work on it this wednesday. cant wait i haven't driven it since early august. will be its first tune in australia hope shes all sweet!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...