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R34 Gtr Fuel Pump

Skyline1989

By Skyline1989,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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666DAN Grand Master

666DAN

Posted
Posted

Sort of drop in..not that hard to fit though

Get yourself 2 x 3" hose clamps to secure the pump to the GTt cradle, cut the inlet tube to the correct length (so it doesn't kink) and secure the sock to the base of the cradle with 2 x 1" hose clamps, at the exact same angle and position as the GTt sock.

If you do it right it's very secure, and the pickup is in the same factory position so you don't get any suprises when the fuel level drops.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
He explains egine power figures

I was more interested in RW figures

Could someone work this out for me?

I tried working it out and came up with a figure of approx. 366RWKS

But this doesn't seem possible

That's why I said in a perfect world.

350-375rwkw is not out of the question but they aren't all 100% at the age they are becoming. You won't know until you do a flow test at 12 V and work out exactly how much that particular pump flows. Even then it's not exactly going to be 100% accurate. The pump could be f**ked and you might run out of fuel at 250rwkw, who knows? The only way to tell for sure is to do a flow test under pressure once you have it. 2nd hand parts = hit and miss

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    • Kinkstaah
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      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

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      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
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      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
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