Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i love that popup screen! dont get many cars factory fitted with something like that specially japs...

ive hooked up a dvd player on mine and it works perfectly

and its so simple to do it only took an audio/electrical noob like me 20mins to get it working :D

Hi i wondered what dvd u used to hook up the factory screen? and where u put tat new dvd player? is the pop up mechanism working properly? any pic would be appreciated!! i need one dvd player for my screen too~

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 78
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

looks like it would work. hint: look in your boot passenger side rear corner. that will make things easier :)

KV2,

if you can find it toss it my direction. I've taken to fixing these things as some aren't too bad (cost wise) on parts.

Best hint ever, works a charm thank you so much!

BTW you don't know the ground wire to keep video running when driving by any chance?

  • 3 weeks later...

Just got my 34 and same thing, the cd player unit lights up, won't let me put a disk in there [ though i think maybe someone has left one in there before compliance did whatever it was they did ] because when i go to put a disk in, it sounds like a spinning disk is scratching it once it goes in a little bit, also my screen doesn't move at all some audio guy had a look and checked to see if it was getting power and it was just couldnt get it to work, any ideas?

or better yet does anyone know when these are imported what they do to disable the screen altogether?

i also have this little button that is under my steering wheel centre console side says TV on it, i press the button and it lights up, though still get no response from cd unit or screen.

Just got my 34 and same thing, the cd player unit lights up, won't let me put a disk in there [ though i think maybe someone has left one in there before compliance did whatever it was they did ] because when i go to put a disk in, it sounds like a spinning disk is scratching it once it goes in a little bit, also my screen doesn't move at all some audio guy had a look and checked to see if it was getting power and it was just couldnt get it to work, any ideas?

or better yet does anyone know when these are imported what they do to disable the screen altogether?

i also have this little button that is under my steering wheel centre console side says TV on it, i press the button and it lights up, though still get no response from cd unit or screen.

-----------------------

difficult to comment without seeing the car but here goes -

1 if there is a cd already in the Xanavi HU you just hit eject and it should come out - the whirring sound you mention is most likely the small fan at the inside back of the radio/cassette player (not the Xanavi HU) and if you listen carefully it runs whenever ignition is turned on - its unlikely a cd is in there already! even when the HU play up its generally that they accept the cd but wont read it - your HU internals seem either totally dead or you have a stuck cd player mechanism (just as bad!)

don't even think about dismantling the HU yourself and there is basically no-one other than Mr Rogers who offers a repair service - forget about anyone in Sydney

at a guess, the button you refer to is probably an after market by-pass switch put in by original owner to watch TV while driving (which the HU does not normally allow) - post up a pic if you can

2 generally when the HU does not work the screen doesn't either as the former controls the latter - these systems are not disabled by a Compliancer - many just don't work probably because the internal circuitry and sensors are fried or whatever

3 if your keen to learn more then research/read all the threads and posts about the Xanavi HU on SAU - there are lots - and you will see what options are available

4 your best last desperation resort is try another identical Xanavi HU in the car to see if it works - g/l finding one that works

awesome ive been searching "R34 pop up screen" and i dont think im getting the right threads will use Xanavi HU from now on for more info.... ill get some pictures shortly.

the only part that lights up is the side closest to the driver, i push eject nothing happens.

thanks again for the info.

1 well the next wild card suggestion is related to only half the HU lighting up - a very odd siyuation - from experience I can tell you that like many brands of car stereos etc the plastic fascia with the controls is attached to the body of the HU and is removable (if your game that is ) - it has pressure contacts and some small circuit boards etc - and just maybe you have some problem related to the buttons/contacts on the fascia not working properly

a long shot but is desperation anything may be worth a try

------------------------------

2 also have you actually disassembled the whole unit from the dash and checked that all connectors at the back of the HU are actually connected - its not that hard a job and you can actually almost pull the whole unit out and turn it around before undoing and checking the connectors as the leads are all more than long enough - pulling it out completely takes about 3 minutes, the screen a little longer

they are each only 'one fit' so there is no way you can mix em up even if you pull the unit out completely and refit it

  • 2 weeks later...
1 well the next wild card suggestion is related to only half the HU lighting up - a very odd siyuation - from experience I can tell you that like many brands of car stereos etc the plastic fascia with the controls is attached to the body of the HU and is removable (if your game that is ) - it has pressure contacts and some small circuit boards etc - and just maybe you have some problem related to the buttons/contacts on the fascia not working properly

a long shot but is desperation anything may be worth a try

------------------------------

2 also have you actually disassembled the whole unit from the dash and checked that all connectors at the back of the HU are actually connected - its not that hard a job and you can actually almost pull the whole unit out and turn it around before undoing and checking the connectors as the leads are all more than long enough - pulling it out completely takes about 3 minutes, the screen a little longer

they are each only 'one fit' so there is no way you can mix em up even if you pull the unit out completely and refit it

may give option 2 a go sometime soon, ive only had the car a month, never had any car as nice as this and dont wanna mess anything up, but if its all one fit, shouldnt be too much of a problem right. :D

just put those led's from dan666 into the dash the other day and that went well, so i guess this is next. hopefully thats the problem.

okay pulled it all out this afternoon EASY, looking at all the cables everywhere HARD lol, okay had a look at everything pulled all the cables in the back out and replugged them in to make sure they were in correctly, still nothing, tried using the bypass on to operate anything still nothing, i have found 1 plug that was covered in electrical tape though looking at the plugs i couldn't really match it to anything. i took some photos off the cables around and some of the TV bypass thingy to see if anyone can make anything out of it.

Oh and i tried unplugging the bypass and plug it straight into the HU, but then i lost all radio stations and still nothing from the screen. so looking on the bad side in getting it working.

post-47444-1246348856_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246348890_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246348944_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246349015_thumb.jpg

post-47444-1246349094_thumb.jpg

you have the same model ccu-3710v as I have - but yours has been fitted with the after-market RSPEC TV controller and the wiring altered accordingly

surprised that it affects you radio audio

as per my original post the least cost best option may be to start looking for a cheap second hand Xanavi HU that works and just replace the existing unit

in the last picture is a white set of connectors connected well if i disconnect that my radio goes back to static, i had a small square type thing installed the other week which shifts the FM bands or something which allowed me to get radio, i should have looked while i was there, the last picture has all those black wires and they go to the Rspec cables in that white connector you see, im thinking maybe the guy tapped into them ( i dont know much about electrics, but i know that as soon as i unplug that my radio doesnt work) when i plug the connector in without the rspec connector it still doesnt work.

i can pull it apart again if you need some pore pictures of something.

what are the odds of getting a second hand Xanavi HU that works?

Mines f**ked aswell, it comes up with that aqua/blue screen with the two boxes one yellow the other white with Japanese in it. I half translated one box, the first word is Program (thanks highschool Japanese). I'd love to get it fixed as it always opened when the ignition is turned on and none of the buttons work while its like this, however sometimes it beeps and then goes back to the normal NISSAN screen with the grey background and works for a little bit, then just goes back to that blue screen.

If I can't find anyone to fix it or point me in the right direction and i'll try fix it myself I'm gonna rip the bugger out and put the GTT tachos in there.

Once the screen is at this stage can it be fixed at all?

Edited by Jack-
Would anyone know of a way to check the stock LCD screen to see if it's working, it's currently been fitted with a pioneer deck, i dont have the stock deck to place it back in. If there someone i can take it to in sydney? :thumbsup:

We have the same error on my g/f's r34gt. I translated it to: Program Disk Swap Do Please, so yeah pretty much saying to swap for the program disk. We had the original map cd in there though, not sure if they class that as the program disk

  • 3 weeks later...

for those with a bit of electronics behind them :laugh: and want to MANUALLY put the screen UP/DOWN do this.

pull the screen out from the dash.

pull the top off where the plugs go in

locate this IC (see attachment)

tack 2 wires onto these locations:

M+ (screen UP)

M- (Screen DOWN)

these are located JUST below the Vref pin. grounding either of them will result in the screen moving the desired direction and stopping on its limits.

getting video into a defunct screen ( you still need the navi for the data feed)

locate TV + / TV - on the board and feed a composite NTSC signal into it and USE THIS CIRCUIT to get sync

lm1881.gif

power it accordingly (suggest +9v as there is a supply there for that.)

enjoy :)

dont ask for help - if you do not understand what I posted DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!

post-2209-1248603627_thumb.jpg

  • 2 months later...

I've searched around the forum and found a lot of good info, but nothing exactly fitting to what I need.

I just bought an R34 that originally came with a Xanavi HU. But the dealer removed only the HU before selling it to me saying that it was already broken, and replaced it with a tray, essentially making it a cassette only vehicle. The screen is still there but not connected. Afterwards I bought a used Xanavi HU and put it in its spot, and all it does is beep. Goes like this: "beep.........beep beep". It does it every 10 mins or so. Seems like a error code. It does allow me to eject and insert a disc (upon which it does the beep sequence again). No other buttons do anything, and the screen never pops up. Also it lights up with the instrument cluster, but that is it.

Was I lucky enough to have two bricked HUs consecutively? Any ideas? :)

Also does anyone know what that one socket is, on the extreme right side on the rear of the HU? It is sort of copper, round and almost coaxial, and doesn't seem to have anything to plug into it. Some people's pics on the forums also show nothing plugging into it. I plugged in everything into the HU, except for whatever goes in this thing.

  • 4 weeks later...
Afterwards I bought a used Xanavi HU and put it in its spot, and all it does is beep. Goes like this: "beep.........beep beep". It does it every 10 mins or so. Seems like a error code. It does allow me to eject and insert a disc (upon which it does the beep sequence again). No other buttons do anything, and the screen never pops up. Also it lights up with the instrument cluster, but that is it.

I have this same problem, does anyone know what it is? Is the HU stuffed, or does it need some sort of initialization disc or something?

nope the Navi side of it is stuffed.

i have been having problems with mine also. Recently brought it and it wasnt working right.... sometimes it turned on and worked fine then without warning it would freeze and not do anything until i turned the car off. The screen pop up button didnt work etc etc. So last night i took the whole lot apart and spent 3hours going over the navi unit motherboard... resoldering and replacing parts then did the same on the tape deck, put it back together and hey presto so far touch wood it woring fine again. Scrren pops up when i want it to, the cd player works when i want it to. So next thing is to get a pc wired to it (fairly sure i can do it) then ill have guages displayed on it also :/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The SS button head cap screw on the back? If so, good to know. I presumed it was there for basic assembly and nothing more. 
    • Hello, everyone. I'm new to the forum. I have a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTR. I have lost all power to the interior, including AC controls, the gauge cluster, turn signals, and windows. Stuff that still works includes the horn, brake lights, radio, and headlights. All fuses, in the interior and exterior boxes, tested good.  It starts and runs fine, just with no gauge power or anything stated above. No warning lights either. Things that I have tested: - Fusable link tested fine - No other fuses blown - Alternator good - IGN switch tested fine - With my power probe, I can backfeed power through the IGN pin to the plug on the back of the gauge cluster, and everything comes back on.    So my theory is something on the control side that sends the ignition power through the system isn't doing its job, or a wire is broken. (I would think that it is the ignition switch that would do that, but who knows?). The ignition relays don't fire (all relays tested good). So what tells them to fire other than the IGN switch?  I would really appreciate it if someone had some insight on this. I have tons of hours into this; I don't want to give up in defeat! I have the HD wiring diagram, but having all those wires laid out like that on one sheet of paper makes things pretty hard to follow.  Thanks for reading, and thanks for the replies.  Where should I look next? Thanks.
    • Install a MAP sensor pre and post throttle. Best data you could have for NA, then play with the bends and/or air box and see how much of inflection is created at WOT on the plot.
    • And gone to a new home  
    • The car remains in paint jail. I am now pretty convinced that the whole "RB25 Airboxes are kinda limiting to ~300kw" could be a thing. Also saw a good video from Engine Masters: (Sorry for FB link) (https://www.facebook.com/watch/?ref=search&v=761771519471924&external_log_id=c10bcbb6-2c39-4ff3-9240-287e9921fde6&q=Cold Air Considerations) Where they tested Pod Filter sizes and kept adding bends to a LS3 on an Engine Dyno to find if bends caused power loss. It's a good video worth watching - They did lose ~25hp from making an intake which had 3x90's and a 120 degree. They only lost maybe 1hp with a basic 90. I feel that by sealing up my airbox I have: 1) Created the same restriction a stock airbox would have. 2) Created a very convoluted set of intake 'pipes' by forcing all the air through the ducts. So I am pretty confident I'll be going full circle and have a huge hot air intake pod and actually see a benefit. The air does *not* stay hot once it gets flowing, aided by the ducts, and the pod can then pull air from anywhere. All the posts of yore talk about the stock airbox costing 10-15kw at 300kw+ but you know what? I f**king would very much like that 10-15kw and I remember my own pod filter in engine bay experiences. Turns out the GTT Reo and Headlight brackets really don't allow you to mount GTR items, no matter what the internet says. Various brackets have had to be made up to actually make it fit right for the front bar. Also some idiot mounted a 3L Accusump right where the bumper wants to go, so that has had to be 'relocated' To where, I am still not sure, but it's supposedly mounted in the pictures and I can't see it.
×
×
  • Create New...