Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, my mum drives a a4 which recently needed new rotors,pads

after replacing the rotors "apparenly 4 times according to audi"

we found they had never been changed , spoke to some people who i dont need to name in cannington, who seemed good people and informed us, we got some lucas pads and brembo rotors put on,

the car made a slight click clunk kinda noise feeling when coming to a compleate stop, still does, how ever during this time mums driving the car down the grame farmer when the right hand rotor falls off and jams on and nearly sends the a4 onto the rong side of the road thru the tunnel = bang.

seemed like a simple thing breaks and rotors. ehh great

just be carefull guys... keep rolling

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24393-mums-audi-ate-shit/
Share on other sites

I've seen someone on another (unnamed) forum try to tell everyone that brakes are too important to do yourself and that you should leave it up to the "professionals". Whether changing rotors or pads or bleeding the system or reconditioning the calipers.

I've been doing my own brakes for over 15 years (the lot except the master cylinder, including reconditioning calipers) and I've never stuffed up like that. If you know what you're doing, can you really trust anyone other than yourself?

Buy new seals, push pistons out with compressed air (or take caliper off and pump the pedal until it comes out for the bush mechanic version), clean out inside of caliper, hone it if necessary, replace seals, re-assemble.

Repeat for other calipers, replace brake fluid and bleed system.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...