Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Federal 595SS's are good tyres for a good price, I pay retail of under $200 a corner from a local tyre joint. Oh and they take quite a hammering too :domokun:

Mind if I ask what local tyre place that is? Interested in getting some 595's but can't find many places in WA that have them. According to Federal's site, there aren't any dealers in WA, which we all know is a lie.

I run 225/45/17 at the front and 235/45/17 at the back (they didn't have any 245s :().

I think the name of the place is Watts Western Rubber or something, it's on Guildford Rd like 2 streets from my house and is painted up yellow and black with Dunlop logos.

Best tyres i used on my 33 last time was the Bridgestone Potenza G3's... Man those f**king tyres stick to the road even when its really wet! I only started sliding around when theres only like 50% tread left..

They don't come cheap though.. if I have not mistaken I got a set for about $1400+wheel alignment 2 1/2 years ago...

+1 for g3's got them n ma work honda hahaha need grip for deliveries

hell grippy even in wet weather too

n just lettin you know it's a shame but i think bridgestone have replaced the g3's with something else cna't member wot it's called

or even try yokohamas es100 if they stull make it grippy as :P

my 2c worth

ps: dont not ever go for ling longs

+1 for g3's got them n ma work honda hahaha need grip for deliveries

hell grippy even in wet weather too

n just lettin you know it's a shame but i think bridgestone have replaced the g3's with something else cna't member wot it's called

or even try yokohamas es100 if they stull make it grippy as :D

my 2c worth

ps: dont not ever go for ling longs

I had linglongs once.. they last long time.. because they're so fkn hard! Would spin 4th in the wet, 3rd in the dry and step out round wet corners without any throttle :P

Im gonna have to replace my tyres soon .... any suggestions ?? Brendan said to get Goodyear F1's .... Rhys i didnt know Sumitomo

are like quite good tyres ... they were on my front when i got the car .... Sumitomo HTR Z II i think ... how much would it cost tho ??

235/45/17 ... and how do we determine what width to go with ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...