Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About 400 should be right for a decent one. If you want a hassle free install, I always recommend the ARC. Pricey, but with all the fussing about and hassles the labour would cost as much anyways.

Although JustJap have the stealth intercooler which I still think is a good buy but I think they went up in price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244210-intercooling/#findComment-4252413
Share on other sites

as the sayin goes, you get wat you paid for.

a couple people on here have got the just jap stealth cooler for i think $550 and have given mixed responses. some say its good, some say the quality is poor but it still does the job.

instead of getting a cheaper one and having hassels, as mentioned, the ARC "stealth" style is a great cooler but with a LARGE price tag. think around $1600?

there are others such as the GREDDY one. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gr...le-t231160.html

this does mean cutting a hole on the driver side front section of the engine bay.

go quality not cheap ones IMO

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244210-intercooling/#findComment-4252557
Share on other sites

I just wanna add some feedback for cheap intercoolers; typically they are heavy and if you know your car well and have one installed you can instantly notice the extra weight on the front of the car; especially going over bumps etc.

I noticed this in my s15 when i had a hybrid cooler kit installed. My friend bought an arc cooler and they are amazingly light which is probably where the extra money is of benefit.

Trust Greddy kits are not too bad either.

We all have nice cars here and its probably best to save the extra money and buy quality rather than the 'i want it now' attitude.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244210-intercooling/#findComment-4252925
Share on other sites

SAU Traders. Simple as that really. Why dick around with the risk of crap from ebay?

For good, cheap kits. I would go the SAU Traders every time. They all have varying kits for different applications etc etc.

A $1000+ Japs brand name I/C kit for a car with less than 250-300rwkw IMO is a pure waste of money.

You simply don't need to spend that much when your not running big power setups.

The cheaper $300-$450 cooler kits hold well enough on a car with mild mods, the differences wouldnt come near justifying the $700+ difference in price tag

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244210-intercooling/#findComment-4253350
Share on other sites

Hi Gizzmo,

My 2c's worth.

Have just finished fitting a cheap ($400) I/C into a R32 Gtst, the I/C was advertised as fitting 32 & 33's. While as Nismoid mentioned it will do a satisfactory job in a car with light mods the biggest hurdle is getting it to fit without butchering the car. We never expected the I/C to just slide right in and this a list of stuff we had to do to get it in;

1. Make a top bracket for the cooler so we could mount it the reo bar. We could have used the home-made bracket and bolted the cooler to the central upright but as its fairly weighty we wanted support at both ends not just in the middle.

2. Drill 2 bolt holes in recessed sections of the reo bar. Bolts must have ground down heads so that they won't foul the front bumper and rub holes in it and also allows the bit of shiny plastic that sits in/on the centre of the f/b to be screwed back on.

2. Bend the bottom brackets to the correct shape so they were a neat/tight fit.

3. Cut a hole under the battery tray using a hole saw. If you haven't already got a hole-saw then it will cost roughly $70 for the saw and a mandrel and the saw will be stuffed by the time its cut the hole.

5. Cut the bracket off the main pipe (one that runs across the front of the motor). The bracket may have been of some use in a R33 but it serves no purpose in a 32.

Now for the bits we really didn't like doing.

4. One of the pipes that runs directly off the cooler was too long. It didn't matter how much we twisted, turned, jiggled or wriggled it the bastard thing was TOO long. So we cut about 15-20mm out of the pipe. The problem with doing this is that now we had to seal it without the rims/lips on the end of the pipe to stop it from pulling/popping apart under load. So we bought a longer (150mm) piece of silicone hose, used emery paper to take the shiny finish off the pipe (dull don't slip as easy as shiny) and then used 4 decent hose clamps to hold it together.

5. Got the whole thing together and looking okay. Then we shut the bonnet, F*CK, the bonnet pushed the main pipe down about 10mm so that the fan blades were clipping the underside of the pipe.

6. Undid the drivers side pipes and pushed, pulled and twisted the pipes around until we got it so the bonnet doesn't push on it (just touches) but obviously the fan was still hitting.

The bit we really, really didn't like.

7.The only quick around the fan blade problem is to trim enough off each blade so that it clears the main pipework. Luckily we have an old fan which we did a test run on then trimmed one of those blades and using that piece for a template we marked and trimmed the good fan.

8.Trimmed the front bumper.

If the main pipe had been just a slightly different shape then these last few problems could have been avoided and if we do have any problems then we'll be off to an exhaust shop to get a specially bent pipe which is probably what we should have done in the first place.

Not prepared to publicly name the type of I/C it is as it was cheap and it did eventually fit, sort of, but as you can tell it is not a straightforward procedure. I suspect that there is many SAU members who have far less hassles than we did but I also suspect that theres a lot who have had as many if not more. Different brands may well give a different result i.e. a better fit.

We reckon you should do as much homework as possible before spending your money. If all of the above sounds like too much hassle then save up till you can pay some-one else to do it.

More like my $20 worth.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/244210-intercooling/#findComment-4254680
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...