Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by R33man

I was recently quoted $4000 for supply and fit (including dyno tune) of a Power FC computer and boost controller.  Is this a good price or should i look elsewhere.  :)

:bahaha: can u say RIP OFF??

U can buy one new for $1400 with hand controller, to install takes about 10 mins if u know how to use a screw driver and socket set. Proper tune depending on mods you got about 2 hrs.

All up i think u are paying around $2300 more than u should.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-523164
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Ronin 09

look out guys, customs are getting smart. The last 2 packages from greenline i've received have been taxed, and they've somehow got the exact cost of the items as per greenline's site...

How much tax did u pay on the parts??

Customs must be reading the forums to now.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524328
Share on other sites

Originally posted by hungry6

mine is costing me a fair bit more to tunecause i'm looking for the every last horses in the motor , including the one hiding behing the trees.

One word : DETONATION.

If you try and extract evey last pony, as soon as the air temp changes, or you get a slightly off batch of fuel etc, your check engine light starts flashing away at you, ignore it and do a rebuild.

Its a real pain (talking from experience). If you go for a more conservative tune, it is more likely to give you a longer, hassell free life.

0.02

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-524718
Share on other sites

Steve...of course detonation and exhaust temp would be taken into consideration. In fact a lot time is usually spent tuning at the track (if the pockets are deep) where temp is hot and car is being pushed hard...would have thought you had done that with your car too.

P.S....why would you ignore the engine light flashing at you?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525269
Share on other sites

4 Doorz, the post just set off alarm bells, so injecting a word of caution. Every last pony insights visions of max hp on a dyno - to me anyways. I had someone do a 'get every pony possible' tune, and it wasnt long before I took it somewhere else and got a retune.

I completely agree with you, WRT a good tune. My car doesnt get track tuned, but it does get a good workout on the street. And yes it does cost extra, but well worth it IMHO.

Check engine light - some people dont keep an eye on their check engine light, and usually pay the price.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/24467-power-fc-cost/#findComment-525658
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. A 3d wheel alignment is like $120...just take it to the shop. Since theres probably multiple adjustments that need to be made after changing something. Mine has front/rear lower arms, traction rods, tension rods, camber arms, toe arms, front upper arms, hicas kit, sway bars and coilovers. I measure from the edge of the bolt holes on the originals and set the same length on all the adjustable stuff to dial it as close as I could to OEM. Took it straight for alignment; it didnt feel right at all...after alignment, it feels perfect. Similarly i've just changed the springs on another car; and I still needed multiple adjustments to bring it back in spec.
    • A full Veilside kitted JZA80 Supra in Meriken park in Kobe city a few weeks back
    • Its a well known brand in New Zealand; its a rebrand of the Rhino RAV3.  I don't know what the wiring difference *is* between the rev.1 (installed about 15 years ago) and rev.2; but as you say I would think its reasonable that it uses the same immobiliser relay circuits. I had a look but couldnt see a similar harness; but didnt move things around since I didnt want to mess with it   It was one of AVS well known Authorised Installers; I spoke to AVS themselves about it but theyre unsure hence seeking advice more so from the skyline community who are more familiar with the actual car and its wiring. Im in Auckland; but the installer is on the other side of the city so hes very reluctant to come back to even look at it to confirm something isnt connected into the wrong wire.  I dont want to drop the name since they *did* do a really good job for the most part. Everything is very tidy and he fully replaced all the alarm wiring, all the sensors, the wiring to the door motors, installed a switch which was never installed in the first place...really happy with the alarm install itself..just not this one issue. We all make mistakes, if it is the alarm, I just want my fuel pump getting proper switched, fused, power as it was; without having to shell out for an auto electrician to switch a wire and tell me it was the alarm. 
    • Even with the piston at TDC there was room for it to drop, but I don't think it can drop fully into the cylinder, the problem you have is that you need something pushing against the valve to hold it up so you have enough room to put the new stem seal on and the spring etc.  I used compressed air only because putting rope in the cylinder seemed a bit risky to me, I know people have done it countless times before like this. Overall it's a pain in the ass job. Honestly you'd probably be better off taking the head off because the risk of dropping something in the engine and the finicky-ness of it all is very stressful. If you are going to attempt it though i 10000% recommend a 36050 valve spring/keeper tool. I had both the traditional lever type and after doing 1 cylinder it was absolute pain to get those valve keepers in place, even with 2 people. That 36050 is amazing, you do have to push hard to get them in place but it works perfectly almost every time. Back to my actual issue I think my engine is just tired and old and the rings have gone bad. The comp numbers (cold, no oil) were: Cyl 1 -129psi Cyl 2 - 133psi Cyl 3 - 138psi Cyl 4 - 137psi Cyl 5 - 157psi Cyl 6 - 142psi   Cylinder 5 and 6 having the most carbon on them.
    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
×
×
  • Create New...