Jump to content
SAU Community

Fresh Gtr 32 For Sale! ( Just Arrived From Jap)


Recommended Posts

HEY EVERYONE,

I JUST GOT A GTR 32 FROM JAPAN, THAT CAR NEED ANOTHER $1000 TO FIX THE BODY PANNEL B4 GOTO COMPLIANCE, NORMALLY I WILL NOT SELL IT BUT I NEED TO GO BACK OVERSEA FOR A YEAR SO I WANT TO TRY TO SELL IT IN URGET ....I CAN SHOW THE IMPORT APPROVAL TO YOU......

INFO OF THE GTR...

20000KM (ARROUND)

MANUAL

NISMO SPEEDO

HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH

AFTER MARKET EXHAUST

CAR PARKED AT SUNNYBANK 4109

PRICE $10000 PRICE IS NEGO

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR WANT TO ASK MORE PHOTO, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PM ME OR SEND MSN TO ME.....I WILL REPLY YOU ASAP!!

[email protected] (E-mail and MSN messenger)

post-57770-1226682064_thumb.jpg

post-57770-1226682151_thumb.jpg

post-57770-1226682265_thumb.jpg

Edited by ~S!M@N~
wa. . .simon

so you importing cars and sell them too??

you better put the damage of the panel photos up.

I am working with my partner for Importing car from Japan, I have another partner at Japan also.

All right I will put the photo at tomorrow, Sorry about that, beucase I am bit busy on my work, if you live near my area, I am happy to let you come to see the car..... Beucase I also got another GTR for sale......

not interested on buying another Gtr coz got a "FEW" outside my window now. . . but if you are going to be a business trader. . . please register yourself as a business trader. . .

Sorry all of my friends,

I just post up the damaged part, please have a look,

If anyone intrest to have a look on real parts, or any questions PLease PM me...or add me at MSN~~

post-57770-1226995725_thumb.jpg

I think it would need a whole new quarter panel. . . um. . . any thot guys?

So That's why need arround $1000 to fix it......so anyone intrest to fix it and drive at Steert or to be a Track car, Please PM me for more informations.

So That's why need arround $1000 to fix it......so anyone intrest to fix it and drive at Steert or to be a Track car, Please PM me for more informations.

Hi Simon

As discussed by phone can you send the details of the compliance guy that helped you bring it in, as they can verify what needs to be done and any reasons why it may be rejected for road compliance. E.G damage or rust.

Cheers

Hi Simon

As discussed by phone can you send the details of the compliance guy that helped you bring it in, as they can verify what needs to be done and any reasons why it may be rejected for road compliance. E.G damage or rust.

Cheers

I was after the same info

I think it would need a whole new quarter panel. . . um. . . any thot guys?

Why are you such a playa hater Stephen, hostility. Has Simon upset you? If you don't want to buy the car, just shut up.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...