Jump to content
SAU Community

Fresh Gtr 32 For Sale! ( Just Arrived From Jap)


Recommended Posts

HEY EVERYONE,

I JUST GOT A GTR 32 FROM JAPAN, THAT CAR NEED ANOTHER $1000 TO FIX THE BODY PANNEL B4 GOTO COMPLIANCE, NORMALLY I WILL NOT SELL IT BUT I NEED TO GO BACK OVERSEA FOR A YEAR SO I WANT TO TRY TO SELL IT IN URGET ....I CAN SHOW THE IMPORT APPROVAL TO YOU......

INFO OF THE GTR...

20000KM (ARROUND)

MANUAL

NISMO SPEEDO

HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH

AFTER MARKET EXHAUST

CAR PARKED AT SUNNYBANK 4109

PRICE $10000 PRICE IS NEGO

IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS OR WANT TO ASK MORE PHOTO, PLEASE FEEL FREE TO PM ME OR SEND MSN TO ME.....I WILL REPLY YOU ASAP!!

[email protected] (E-mail and MSN messenger)

post-57770-1226682064_thumb.jpg

post-57770-1226682151_thumb.jpg

post-57770-1226682265_thumb.jpg

Edited by ~S!M@N~
wa. . .simon

so you importing cars and sell them too??

you better put the damage of the panel photos up.

I am working with my partner for Importing car from Japan, I have another partner at Japan also.

All right I will put the photo at tomorrow, Sorry about that, beucase I am bit busy on my work, if you live near my area, I am happy to let you come to see the car..... Beucase I also got another GTR for sale......

not interested on buying another Gtr coz got a "FEW" outside my window now. . . but if you are going to be a business trader. . . please register yourself as a business trader. . .

Sorry all of my friends,

I just post up the damaged part, please have a look,

If anyone intrest to have a look on real parts, or any questions PLease PM me...or add me at MSN~~

post-57770-1226995725_thumb.jpg

I think it would need a whole new quarter panel. . . um. . . any thot guys?

So That's why need arround $1000 to fix it......so anyone intrest to fix it and drive at Steert or to be a Track car, Please PM me for more informations.

So That's why need arround $1000 to fix it......so anyone intrest to fix it and drive at Steert or to be a Track car, Please PM me for more informations.

Hi Simon

As discussed by phone can you send the details of the compliance guy that helped you bring it in, as they can verify what needs to be done and any reasons why it may be rejected for road compliance. E.G damage or rust.

Cheers

Hi Simon

As discussed by phone can you send the details of the compliance guy that helped you bring it in, as they can verify what needs to be done and any reasons why it may be rejected for road compliance. E.G damage or rust.

Cheers

I was after the same info

I think it would need a whole new quarter panel. . . um. . . any thot guys?

Why are you such a playa hater Stephen, hostility. Has Simon upset you? If you don't want to buy the car, just shut up.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...